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    Break bleeding tip:

    If youve just installed new lines and performed master cylinder rebuild and caliper rebuilds... its going to be HARD to get your lever and pedal to firm up by just pumping the crap out of it.

    The problem is all of the air in the calipers and line acting like a cushion... not allowing the fluid to flow. A vacuum bleeder helps to eliminate this issue... but if you dont have access to a vacuum bleeder you can do the following.

    When youve filled the reservoir, take the banjo off the caliper and pinch it between your thumb and forefinger to seal off the open ends. Pump (or have a friend pump) the lever until you can feel a pressure change in the banjo. Pull and hold the lever... release the banjo and re grab the banjo then release the lever. Do this a few times until fluid pumps out of the banjo. Now reattach it to the caliper and pump away to build pressure and bleed as normal.

    For dual disc fronts... start on the clutch side and finish on the throttle side. On the rear brake, bleed the inner piston first and end on the outer.

    Works like a charm.

    #2
    Thanks for sharing. It's a problem that all riders experience at some stage.

    I usually back bleed through the caliper to the master cylinder, but will try your method next time. Cheers
    :) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

    GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
    GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
    GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
    GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

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    Comment


      #3
      I use my mighty vac and they are done in just a few minutes per caliper..easy peasy.
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment


        #4
        2nd on the mighty vac! I hate these brakes by the way... No Mater how much I bleed them they still feel to soft at the brake lever. Any Recommendations on that?
        Jedz Moto
        1988 Honda GL1500-6
        2002 Honda Reflex 250
        2018 Triumph Bonneville T120
        2023 Triumph Scrambler 1200XE
        Cages: '18 Subaru OB wagon 3.6R and '16 Mazda 3
        Originally posted by Hayabuser
        Cool is defined differently by different people... I'm sure the new rider down the block thinks his Ninja 250 is cool and why shouldn't he? Bikes are just cool.

        Comment


          #5
          Pump the hand lever as hard as you can and hold it as tight against the bars as you wrap a bungee around it to hold it and leave it that way over night..Take off the bungee in the morning and let the lever release...youll be amazed!! As for the rear..do the same thing and jam something to hold the lever down and let it set as well.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment


            #6
            Also, get some speed bleeders. They make brake work MUCH easier.

            Comment


              #7
              my friend had this idea of bleeding his car brakes by 'gravity bleeding' them. He hooked up a line onto the nipple, opened it up with the line going into a catch can and then walked away. It worked... Or at least it appeared to work. It ran his entire system dry and then had to start all over. I showed him the ''pump the pedal until it's hard and then hold while I open the bleeder'' method. He was amazed. The best way definitely seems to be some sort of vacuum. I have a fluid evacuator that works amazingly well. Basically a huge mighty vac, only you pump it manually to pressurize (or depressurize if you will) the tank and then open the valve.

              Comment


                #8
                Let it be known that I absolutely hate bleeding brakes... in the worst way.

                But yes... squishy brakes can be cured with the bungee/ziptie trick on the bars overnight.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by DannyMotor View Post
                  Let it be known that I absolutely hate bleeding brakes... in the worst way.

                  But yes... squishy brakes can be cured with the bungee/ziptie trick on the bars overnight.
                  I second that. Not looking forward to doing mine......once I get my bike back together. I just hope they will cooperate with me.

                  I have done that bungee thing before, but not for that reason...but yes my brakes where more 'stiff ' in the morning.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Awesome!!! thanks a million!
                    Jedz Moto
                    1988 Honda GL1500-6
                    2002 Honda Reflex 250
                    2018 Triumph Bonneville T120
                    2023 Triumph Scrambler 1200XE
                    Cages: '18 Subaru OB wagon 3.6R and '16 Mazda 3
                    Originally posted by Hayabuser
                    Cool is defined differently by different people... I'm sure the new rider down the block thinks his Ninja 250 is cool and why shouldn't he? Bikes are just cool.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by mighty13d View Post
                      my friend had this idea of bleeding his car brakes by 'gravity bleeding' them. He hooked up a line onto the nipple, opened it up with the line going into a catch can and then walked away. It worked... Or at least it appeared to work. It ran his entire system dry and then had to start all over. I showed him the ''pump the pedal until it's hard and then hold while I open the bleeder'' method. He was amazed. The best way definitely seems to be some sort of vacuum. I have a fluid evacuator that works amazingly well. Basically a huge mighty vac, only you pump it manually to pressurize (or depressurize if you will) the tank and then open the valve.
                      Or replace the bleeders with speed bleeders, pump the brake until fluid flows steadily, close the bleeders, tie the brake lever and come back after a few hours. Good to go.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Hmm. I thought bleeding my brakes was the easiest thing I've done so far on my bike. I must have gotten lucky. I used the old pump,hold, and crack the bleeder method.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I have tried almost all of these, with the exception of the let gravity do it method, and still have almost half of the lever travel used before it starts to bite.

                          Done the bench bleeding, used the MityVac and tied the lever back...same old, same old. Had better braking before I rebuilt the system and added the stainless line.

                          So far, this is the job that has pretty much beaten me. Managed, with help and advice from the board, to get everything else done and seen major improvements. Not the brakes.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I am not sure about the rest of you but,
                            I hate to take a break because of my bleeding finger tip.

                            Eric

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by oldrookie View Post
                              I have tried almost all of these, with the exception of the let gravity do it method, and still have almost half of the lever travel used before it starts to bite.

                              Done the bench bleeding, used the MityVac and tied the lever back...same old, same old. Had better braking before I rebuilt the system and added the stainless line.

                              So far, this is the job that has pretty much beaten me. Managed, with help and advice from the board, to get everything else done and seen major improvements. Not the brakes.
                              When I had this problem, it was a leak at one of the banjos. Check all your connections for seeping or drips.

                              Comment

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