Break bleeding tip:

[The_Flash]

Or replace the bleeders with speed bleeders, pump the brake until fluid flows steadily, close the bleeders, tie the brake lever and come back after a few hours. Good to go.

You sound like you've used speed bleeders before Mister Cinders. Can you tell me how I can find out what size bleeders will fit my bike? I know my rear caliper is Tokico and I think the fronts are AISIN (?) but i don't know the part number or any other details. Otherwise I'm tempted to take the bike to work and try out the BG pressure bleeder on it

[DannyMotor]

I have tried almost all of these, with the exception of the let gravity do it method, and still have almost half of the lever travel used before it starts to bite.

Done the bench bleeding, used the MityVac and tied the lever back...same old, same old. Had better braking before I rebuilt the system and added the stainless line.

So far, this is the job that has pretty much beaten me. Managed, with help and advice from the board, to get everything else done and seen major improvements. Not the brakes.

That is EXACTLY where my front brakes are now... 1/2 lever, nothing happens. 1/2 lever to the grip 100% braking power.

So unnerving. I have no weeping issues, and everything is 100% dry. So, I think I may have to remove the calipers, c-clamp the pistons and ensure the bleeder is pointed straight up.

That and I'm getting a new Master Cylinder... so that should help.

[GateKeeper]

I am right there with you guys, I had a 1/2 lever of travel, and then it started to bite and get really hard, this I think is ok as I wouldn't want full bite right off the bat, just in case I grab a handful of lever one could end up doing a face plant..

I rebuilt everything, and new ss lines as well, and following the book, pumped the lever a few times, held, and opened the valve, closed valve and pumped a few times, held and opened the valve, did this a few times, saw no more bubbles, I then pumped the lever until it got hard, held it back near the throttle and tied it off for the night

next morning, undid the strap, and now after about a 1/4 lever travel, I am feeling pressure, and the brakes are grabbing, mind you this is so far only in the garage and not braking while the bike is being ridden, have not gotten to that point yet, but they sure do feel good, right now

[oldrookie]

No leaks in mine. All new parts, with the exception of the diaphragm in the M/C. My line is a little long now as I had dirt bike bars on the bike previously and have gone to Superbike bars. May want to try some Daytona bars, so not cutting the line.

No change in brake feel or performance, so may take yet another shot at bleeding the system. Think I'll take the caliper off the bike and get the line as straight as possible and see if that helps get the air out.

[chuck hahn]

And replace ALL the crush washers too.

[Joe Nardy]

Yes, I also hate bleeding brakes, not to mention hydraulic clutches. I have never tried speed bleeders, mainly because of cost. I usually have 4-6 bikes at any given time and that would be a hefty cost to have speed bleeders on all of them.

I just read a very favorable review of the Motion Pro Mini-Bleeder in Motorcycle Consumer News. It is basically a speed bleeder that can be used on any 8mm bleeder nipple. I will report back once I get the Mini-Bleeder and test it out.

Thanks,
Joe

[MisterCinders]

A pair of speed bleeders is $12.50 from Z1.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=4597

I guess that does add up over a stable of bikes, but it's less than filling the tank. Once you spend the $12.50, bleeding the brakes on that bike will always be more bearable.

[oldrookie]

Two hours today, spent bleeding the brakes...again.

Ended up exactly where I started. No drips, no runs, no improvement.

[GateKeeper]

Two hours today, spent bleeding the brakes...again.

Ended up exactly where I started. No drips, no runs, no improvement.

you have probably done it, but just in case you have not.....

now that your confident you have all the air out, and lines are full of nothing but brake fluid, I might suggest...

pump the lever many times, it will eventually get hard and you won't be able to pump no more, at this point don't let it go back to neutral position but hold it back towards the bars, and tie it up in that position, so that it cannot go back, leave it like this overnight, tomorrow unwrap and let the lever release on it's own, you should feel a difference....

for the rear do the same, pump and pump until it can't move hold there, wedge something so it don't release, leave over night, it should help....I wedged some wood and the handle of a paint brush and up against the part the nub goes in for the side cover

I did this just the other day, and it worked, very little lever movement and it gets hard and grabs well now.....

hope it works out for you....

.

[Octain]

Simply fill everything with fluid manually before putting it all back together. Bleed as normal.
Nothing to it..
Never noticed a bit of difference with the overnight, bungee cord thing.
Perhaps they were as good as they were gonna get.

[oldrookie]

Thinking about draining it all, checking everything I've done to it and back filling the fluid.

Really don't want to, but doing the same thing over and over expecting a different result doesn't seem a productive use of my time.

[oldrookie]

Results seem better this a.m. I tied the handle back for the 75th time (slightly overstated) and I THINK the brakes are better.

Going for a ride shortly and will know for sure after that.

[oldrookie]

They are at least as good a they were with 27-year old parts...so for now that is a win. won't rival any new bikes...but I am much happier with them than I have been in a month.

[GateKeeper]

Glad to hear it's a positive outcome......even if it's the same as before, at least it's not worse....

.

[oldrookie]

Here's what I did:

1. Took the caliper off and shook it vigorously. Made sure the bleeder was higher than the brake line port.

2. Attached the MityVac and slathered grease around the base of the bleeder and around the hose attached to the bleeder. (Used Teflon tape when I put the bleeder on a few weeks ago.)

3. Cranked the vacuum up to 25 lbs. and confirmed that no air was leaking around the grease.

4. Opened the bleeder as little as possible and just allowed the brake fluid to trickle into the clear tube.

5. Once I had an inch to two inches of fluid in the tube I watched for bubbles. Tapped the caliper a few times with the plastic handle of my screwdriver.

6. Once I started seeing bubbles I gently pumped the brake lever and watched tiny bubbles work their way out. I didn't tighten the bleeder, just assumed/hoped that the suction action would pull fluid and not air back into the caliper. I kept a close watch on the fluid level to ensure that only fluid was drawn back in. Goes against the accepted procedure, but the normal way wasn't working for me.