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Tips on getting carbs back on bike?
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fuelcat
Tips on getting carbs back on bike?
Ok so I have taken on and off the carbs on my gs550l about 4 times now and every time I struggle to get the intake boots from the air box to the carbs. the middle ones are hard to on all the way. I have the bolts taken off the air box and I use wd-40 on the boots and I wiggle and jiggle and push and pull to try and get them fully on. It takes me over an hour. I figure there must be a tip or trick to getting them on?Tags: None
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I don't know how the fit from airbox to air distributor to boots works on the 550, but there are a few pieces of advice I have based on my experience:
1. silicone lube makes the job much easier
2. Old hard, dry boots makes this the devil's playground
3. On my 650, I don't even bother unbolting the airbox from the frame, but I undo every clamp between the air filter housing and the carb bank. Then, there is enough room to slide the carbs in, and pull them BACK into the airbox boots. Once I get them in the boots, I clamp them down, and pull the entire contraption FORWARD to set the carbs in the intake boots. Get those setup, and I finally tighten down the clamp that holds the airfilter housing and the airbox (air distributor) together. That clamp can be tightened down before pulling the carbs forward if there is a problem with the filter housing and airbox separating.
Takes me about 15 minutes to get everything back together.'83 GS650G
'83 GS550es (didn't like the colours in the 80's, but they've grown on me)
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fuelcat
Originally posted by BigD_83 View PostI don't know how the fit from airbox to air distributor to boots works on the 550, but there are a few pieces of advice I have based on my experience:
1. silicone lube makes the job much easier
2. Old hard, dry boots makes this the devil's playground
3. On my 650, I don't even bother unbolting the airbox from the frame, but I undo every clamp between the air filter housing and the carb bank. Then, there is enough room to slide the carbs in, and pull them BACK into the airbox boots. Once I get them in the boots, I clamp them down, and pull the entire contraption FORWARD to set the carbs in the intake boots. Get those setup, and I finally tighten down the clamp that holds the airfilter housing and the airbox (air distributor) together. That clamp can be tightened down before pulling the carbs forward if there is a problem with the filter housing and airbox separating.
Takes me about 15 minutes to get everything back together.
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lmrmllr89
I used ratchet straps one time. One around the top of the carbs around the front of the engine and then one around the bottom of the carbs and around the front again. Then crank evenly and they pop in.
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TheBigRed
Originally posted by fuelcat View PostI have the bolts taken off the air box
I don't know about the L for sure, but on my 550T in addition to the bolts on the top of the airbox, there is also one on the side, above the starter solenoid and fuses. Taking that out gets a bit more space (I'd say almost 3/4 to 1 inch on my T).
See if you have one there to that might give you more space. After I found that one I've gotten to where I can have the carbs out, change jets and back in, in under an hour.
Amos
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Originally posted by TheBigRed View PostAfter I found that one I've gotten to where I can have the carbs out, change jets and back in, in under an hour.
No, really. You can just about stand back and throw the carbs into place.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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fuelcat
Originally posted by TheBigRed View PostI don't know about the L for sure, but on my 550T in addition to the bolts on the top of the airbox, there is also one on the side, above the starter solenoid and fuses. Taking that out gets a bit more space (I'd say almost 3/4 to 1 inch on my T).
See if you have one there to that might give you more space. After I found that one I've gotten to where I can have the carbs out, change jets and back in, in under an hour.
Amos
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fuelcat
wow you guys are great! 15-20 min! now thats what I would like to happen for me! I have bruises all down my forearms! So I set the carbs into the air box side first? I have been putting them into the engine side first
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Originally posted by fuelcat View PostLOL! Funny
Originally posted by fuelcat View Postwow you guys are great! 15-20 min! now thats what I would like to happen for me!
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Dreef1999
At least on mine it seems to give me a little more room if I pop the fender out and push it towards the rear wheel. I hate dealing with the box and carbs on the 550. That simple hatred alone is quite the argument for pods...
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fuelcat
Originally posted by Dreef1999 View PostAt least on mine it seems to give me a little more room if I pop the fender out and push it towards the rear wheel. I hate dealing with the box and carbs on the 550. That simple hatred alone is quite the argument for pods...
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bomber737
Go to your next fair and get one of those square wood yard sticks they give out and use it to pry against the back side of the carbs and the cross member on the frame. The cross member right by where the tank is held down. Works great for me and I never damage or mar anything. Also a little silicone grease on the intake manifolds lets the carbs slip in easier, aids in sealing them, and takes heat very well.Last edited by Guest; 06-22-2012, 12:30 AM.
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Originally posted by fuelcat View PostI started considering The pods because of the pain in the ass factor of getting the carbs on and off.
Yep, there will be a few sessions of fine-tuning the jetting.
Or, you could simply spend about $100 for new boots and make the experience almost pleasant.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
Comment
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fuelcat
Originally posted by bomber737 View PostGo to your next fair and get one of those square wood yard sticks they give out and use it to pry against the back side of the carbs and the cross member on the frame. The cross member right by where the tank is held down. Works great for me and I never damage or mar anything. Also a little silicone grease on the intake manifolds lets the carbs slip in easier, aids in sealing them, and takes heat very well.
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