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Get some shop rags wet and wring them out...lay around the area to catch any hots that fly off. wet so they dont catch fire..of course.
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MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it. -
See?Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
that's why I posted this in Tips and Tricks.
Thank you, Chuck'83 GS650G
'83 GS550es (didn't like the colours in the 80's, but they've grown on me)Comment
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Cover anything that cant have contaminants getting in there...open clutches, heads and cams..that stuff.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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take the head off and have a machine shop remove them or get some nuts and put on the nubbs and fill the center with weld.
this attaches the nut to the broken bolt and the heat should let it release from the aluminum.
FYI
i didn't read this entire thread so if this has been mentioned already---------->l<
is this billet or cast???
oooooops...couldn't resist
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Thanks, BB. Puddle welding is probably the way this is going to happen. I've had the engine out once before for exhaust header bolt removal, and it was *supposed* to be done then, but I didn't notice it hadn't been done until I dug into the engine again. Sigh.
On another note: where is the best spot for the ground clamp on the block when doing this kind of work?'83 GS650G
'83 GS550es (didn't like the colours in the 80's, but they've grown on me)Comment
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if your working on the head...then on the head somewhere that the clamp holds tight.Comment
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I image as close to the working area as possible? Any issues with paint and current through the aluminum?'83 GS650G
'83 GS550es (didn't like the colours in the 80's, but they've grown on me)Comment
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Ground can go anywhere...shifter lever, tranny bolt, engine mount bolt, doesnt matter really. That said, the general rule of thumb and basic welding 101 states that the closer to the spot to be welded at the better. However,,,whatever is the most applicable spot will still work.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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Brazing requires both sides you're joining to be whistle clean and tight fitting. If you can get both the nut and the stud shiny clean and grease free....which will be hard, because the oil in the surrounding areas will wick up into the heated regions....you might be successful with a braze. It's hard to say whether the cherry red steel will transmit enough of it's heat to the aluminum to do damage, though I personally wouldn't risk it. I imagine there are some experienced fabricators who wouldn't blink an eye?
Welding has no problem with dirt and grime....it just zaps it...and I agree that a weld would be more spot specific re the heat tranfer, and thus less likely to damage the aluminum.
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