Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Hillbilly Valve Spring Compressor

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    Well, yes, I suppose that is easier to see..

    Comment


      #32
      Originally posted by Steve View Post
      Yeah, I started with PVC, even made a video that is posted on BassCliff's site, but found that the PVC deforms too much.
      It's also a bit "fiddly" trying to glue a washer to the end of the PVC to give the clamp something to push on.

      After searching around for various bits of metal that would be stronger, I decided on a deep-well socket. Plenty strong sides, and the (mostly) closed end where the ratchet is attached just keeps the c-clamp from falling into the middle. That is the hole that Brian evidently uses to bolt it to the clamp.

      .
      Yeah I tried the PVC when I did the head but it flexed too much and split. I took a piece of 1/8" x 3/4" steel bar, bent it into a "U" shape and used that. Now that was a real PITA to keep square and prevent parts from flying across the shop. Stubborn, boneheaded tenacity got the job done. Next time I'll breakdown and buy a socket to cut up.
      '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/
      https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35860327946_08fdd555ac_z.jpg

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
        I have heard of a rope in the cylinder to remove the springs for refreshing stem seals before with the head on the bike.

        So how do you get the rope in so you can jam it with the piston? Thru the intake port or something?

        I admittedly haven't done a search for such tricks...sorry.

        The rope goes in through the spark plug hole. Just stuff as much rope as you can in there when the piston is at BDC, leave the rest hanging out, then turn the engine a bit to squish the rope against the valves. Secure the engine so it doesn't rotate, and you're ready to go.

        I'd use a new-ish, clean rope -- something flexible that won't flake apart or get grit in the cylinder.
        1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
        2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
        2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
        Eat more venison.

        Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

        Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

        SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

        Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

        Comment


          #34
          I've never changed an oxygen sensor, but for some reason it gets a special socket with a panel missing. So it's pretty much the same idea, except the cutting is already done for you.
          Hey, nice find. $5 is a bit steep for a socket missing 1/5 of its material, but I guess it's better than the price of a valve spring compressor.

          BTW, the "some reason" is because oxygen sensors have a wire sticking out of them.

          What size C-clamp do you need for this, anyway?
          Charles
          --
          1979 Suzuki GS850G

          Read BassCliff's GSR Greeting and Mega-Welcome!

          Comment


            #35
            Get the largest one you can. I'll get the exact size for you tomorrow though it you want as it's in my tool box in the other garage.
            Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

            1981 GS550T - My First
            1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
            2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

            Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
            Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
            and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by eil View Post
              What size C-clamp do you need for this, anyway?
              If you check the photos, mine says 8" on it. That's 200mm if you're a metric type.

              oldgsfan's is also an 8" c-clamp.


              One detail that's different is that on mine, the socket is bolted to the "static" end of the clamp (it's left a little loose so I can easily turn the socket so the window is in the right spot). This is a LOT easier than trying to juggle the socket separately.

              This also avoids damaging the cylinder head with the static end of the clamp -- you can place the nose of the clamp screw directly against the valve. The "static" end of the clamp can gouge the aluminum cylinder head, and may not reach the valve on some cylinder heads.
              Last edited by bwringer; 07-21-2013, 12:26 PM.
              1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
              2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
              2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
              Eat more venison.

              Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

              Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

              SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

              Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

              Comment

              Working...
              X