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I've seen this question come up a few times, so I searched for an article I'd seen in my MC Classics mag. Seems like it would work pretty well. Never tried it myself. Admin can feel free to move it anywhere or sticky it or whatever.
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I used one on a GS850 I threaded it in in a few more steps, removing, cleaning and regreasing the threader a few times as I went in with it. Also held a piece of copper tubing in my shop vac using a rag, and vacuumed out the cylinder. So far so good, but its only got a few hundred miles since then. No plug changes, ha hasigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things
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I did number 3 on my 78 1000C a few years ago using the NAPA Save-A-Thread kit. Did it on the bike and sucked the cylinder out with some tubing and the shop vac like was mentioned. Put the plug in and rode away. No problems since either.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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I stripped a hole on my Z1, a guy put an insert in, said something about rotating the crank so that when it started any debris would be blown out with exhaust.
Worked okay; lasted the next few years I rode the bike.1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.Comment
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If your threads are not mangled all the way through, this tool works great and does not require an insert. I used it on a hole where the first 20% of the threads were mangled. This tool goes into the hole and you twist the bolt that goes down the center which expands it. Once expanded, you pull out wards till you feel it engage on the good threads. Then you twist it out and it cuts the bad threads on the way out. It worked great and using grease with it kept any shavings from going into the cylinder. The key is it needs good threads to start on (from the inside) so if your threads are trashed all the way through to the chamber then this can not be used.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-640...15KYW0G8G401CDComment
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I'm a huge fan of the Heli Coil. I put on in to replace a glow plug hole I had to drill out on my old Mercedes. It held up nicely. If it will hold against a big 6cyl diesel, it'll hold a sparkplug in a bike any day.Comment
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I've seen hundreds of tooling fixtures and things in industrial settings put together with Heli-Coils. They hold up well. I wouldn't hesitate to use one on a spark plug hole.Comment
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I've repaired a couple spark plug holes with thread chasers. They work if the threads aren't too mangled. Heli coils work too.
The good/bad thing about the aluminum alloy used for these engines is that it is very soft, probably the softest stuff I've seen used in the automotive industry. It probably was selected for it's heat transfer abilities, and the lack of wear it puts on tooling when being machined. It is very easy to "clean up" boogered threads in, so long as there is still something there to work with.sigpic
SUZUKI: 1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca
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I've helicoiled sbc aluminum intakes and transmission cases with excellent results. since the insert is made of steel, it makes for a stronger threaded holeComment
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