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Gudgeon/wrist pin remover.

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    Gudgeon/wrist pin remover.

    I'm thinking I'll need to buy one of these in the near future. It seems there are two types commonly available. One type is basically a graduated drift. I can see that it would work, but I can also see that it could transfer a lot of leverage on to the conrod bearings. The other type (which, at the moment, I'm leaning toward) consists of a collar to fit around the piston and a length of threaded rod that drives the pin through a hole in the collar.

    So, have I interpreted these correctly, and does anyone have any specific recommendations regarding brand, supplier etc?
    1980 GS550ET

    #2
    I just tap them out with a brass drift.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
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      #3
      I made my own with a length of threaded rod, nuts, washers, fender washers, and I think a spacer or two made from PVC pipe (so as not to scratch the aluminum).
      1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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        #4
        Originally posted by bwringer View Post
        I made my own with a length of threaded rod, nuts, washers, fender washers, and I think a spacer or two made from PVC pipe (so as not to scratch the aluminum).
        I'd like to see a pic of that.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
          I'd like to see a pic of that.
          motion pro sells these in a gold colored aluminum.

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            #6
            Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
            motion pro sells these in a gold colored aluminum.
            Thanks Terry
            Easy enough
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #7
              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
              Thanks Terry
              Easy enough
              along my travels i have semi destroyed my pin puller and then repaired it a few times.
              some pins just seem to not move then the puller get's it's threads farked up.
              still a nice looking pizz fer been from nuther kuntry

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                #8
                Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                I just tap them out with a brass drift.
                I just used a 10mm deep socket on my GS750L. Worked well.

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                  #9
                  i have seen bent rod's from being to aggressive with the side load from tapping/pounding/animal type of actions...lol
                  race engine pins usually push out if button's is used on the wrist pins.
                  i have never had a stock engine's pins just push out..some have destroyed my puller whether the pin is stuck in the piston or the rod.

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                    #10
                    The danger of tapping out the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) is that it can distort the big end hole especially on the roller bearing types and or mark the bearing surface where the roller is.
                    If the pin doesn't come with the smallest tap of the supported piston I use a threaded bar and a tube, usually once it starts they come easily. Also gently warming the piston will usually do the job.
                    sigpic

                    Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.

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