Everything that can be replaced has been replaced, except for the black chip in the middle. It doesn't bounce now but still hangs at about 5000 for a while before going up. I give up. The only thing left to get into would be the big brass clock part. But what do you do with that?
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Bouncing electronic tachometer GSX 1100 and GS 1150 1984
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Clone
Well, I have replaced the capacitors twice, and last time I replaced the little blue one and the round brown one and two of the resistors.
Everything that can be replaced has been replaced, except for the black chip in the middle. It doesn't bounce now but still hangs at about 5000 for a while before going up. I give up. The only thing left to get into would be the big brass clock part. But what do you do with that?
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Dink
Careful Clone if you do decide to go into "the big brass clock bit" I vaguely recall someone doing this quite some time ago; IIRC they use contact cleaner and cotton tips to clean out any old lube, dirt etc in there, also IIRC it helped.
Dink
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bringing up a dead thread here but it has some info relavant to my problems. Im ordering the capacitors to see if that will work. Just wondering if anybody knows the tolerance of the resistors on this board. I cant tell if the band is gold or silver. Also should I use 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt?---Eric
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Clone
Also clean the old lube out of the brass movement and use some new lube, that makes a huge difference, I also found that if you adjust the tension of the securing nut, that helps.
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Originally posted by Sparky View Posti replaced the two electrolytic capacitors and the tach now reads but its obviously sluggish when revving the engine. Any suggestions?
Otherwise is the needle free to move or is it real gummed up?
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Clone
You need to remove the back of the brass workings, clean out the old lube and put some new in there, I also backed the tension nut off a little on the back, like 1/8 of a turn and it worked better.
search out another thread where I replaced the green and the little blue 'thingies' on the circuit board, that also helped.
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Originally posted by Clone View PostYou need to remove the back of the brass workings, clean out the old lube and put some new in there, I also backed the tension nut off a little on the back, like 1/8 of a turn and it worked better.
search out another thread where I replaced the green and the little blue 'thingies' on the circuit board, that also helped.
Ive got a new (to me) board and I tested it and it registered so im putting it in right now and Ive got a modification to the cluster Im going to try before I put it back together.---Eric
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is the nut on the back center of the tach itself? I took a shot and loosened it up a touch and the tach reads better than it did, its not as sluggish but it still seems like its reading way low. It reads about 1000RMP at idle and I can rev it and it goes up but it sounds like the bike is revving waaay higher than its reading. Just by ear im not comfortable going over 4000RMP via what the tach is telling me. I dont know how to see if its right other than compare the speed if I take her down the road.---Eric
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Originally posted by Sparky View PostI can rev it and it goes up but it sounds like the bike is revving waaay higher than its reading.
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