Saving a chain with surface rust

[Guest]

First off, I am not the one who did this, an buddy of mine that is a master mech in the area did this... my disclaimer, with that being said, it worked.

after I offloaded my "bard/shed" find 1981 GS450, I had a few friends come by and give advice and help me out getting it road worthy. The problem of the chain came up. MM looked at it and said "aw, its just surface rust, the sprockets are fine.... take it off an give it to me". So I took it off and handed it to him. Fast forward 4 days later, chain comes back rust free, moving great and lubed... I had to ask. He said he let it soak in a solution of phosphoric acid for about an hour, used a brass brush to gently scrub off the heavy stuff, put it back in the solution over night. Gave it another scrub in the morning, let it sit til lunch in the solution and then pulled it out and rinsed it with some used motor oil. After letting it run off for a couple hours...I'm guessing dinner time. He rinsed it in the used oil again, then let it sit over night. The next day he lubed it up with white lithium grease and warmed it up to about 120 degrees for a few minutes, took it out let it cool and then repeated the lithium grease. Next day he sprayed a little lithium grease on the chain and we put it on the bike... looks almost new, can't see the rust. Have about 600 miles on the chain, get no chain noise, nothing kinks... he keeps telling me "it's good, don't worry about it"

He said this is what they did in "the old days" before the internet when they would get a "cosmetically deficient" trade-in to make it look better with the least amount of effort but pose no liability to the shop.

Anyone else ever use this type of process....or should I get a new chain on order lol

[Nessism]

Sounds like the process someone would use back in the day to clean up a non O-ring chain. The lube that matters on an O-ring chain is sealed inside so those kind of treatments are not really beneficial anymore. In fact, if some of the O-rings are weak and/or broken the solution he soaked the chain is likely penetrated the rollers which doesn't seem like such a great idea. At this point though you may as well just roll with it. Look to see if any O-rings are missing and if so, squirt some chain lube on those specific areas regularly. Otherwise, I'd just treat the chain like any other.

[Blue Falcon]

Thanks Ed, nothing immediately jumps out at me on the chain. I think just because I'm a little OCD over this I will go ahead and put a order in for a new one. Probably just go ahead and recondition the rear wheel hub while I'm back there too. Can't hurt.

[trlsrider]

i would never replace only the chain.
that little honda cub i ride has probably the most worn out chain and sprockets you have ever seen.
chains stretch , sprocket teeth wear out , to the point of...they do not engage
new sprockets on way and i will take a few pics ...this is old pic i had

image.jpg
look how much old chain bends compared to new chain side play
and if you lined them up old chain is over an inch longer with both having same number of links
kinks in chain from rust no good,every link needs to be able to pivot
mountainbikers chain path changes more than motorcycles so stiff link really obvious on bicycle, but if you get street bike up on centerstand and spin wheel if it has a stiff link you can feel how it is wrong

[Blue Falcon]

Most of the better quality chains come with the sprockets from what I am finding. When I go to replace it, it will be the set.. along with a hub rebuild.... might as well take care of the rear end.

[trlsrider]

and with the chain off spin the wheel and see that is smooth
and with wheel off pull the shocks... see if swingarm bearings feel good, from trials riding this gets exposed to much water,sand,grit and i repack ..
pull springs off shock(s) and feel if dampening is working ....
most important...wash bike before starting, have good lighting so you can see small problem areas
do not rush and doublecheck bolts and nuts tight,
very very important point....chain can be toooo tight and cause major problems,
different swingarm pivot and engine sprocket pivot points mean chain tightens or loosens as swingarm pivots
list goes on and on actually about more stuff to refresh.. like if bike also has rear linkage...

[Gorminrider]

hmm. I think I'm with your friend...sprocket good? ride it a bit to get the grease out then take the chain off and measure it per manual. stretch indicates wear.
and, worn chains also can have "tight spots" as you spin wheel while adjusting.
If it's good, it's good. so Send your money to a good charity if it's burning a hole in your pocket rather than wasting stuff...because your brand new chain may look exactly the same as this in a year.

[Sam 78 GS750]

and with the chain off spin the wheel and see that is smooth
and with wheel off pull the shocks... see if swingarm bearings feel good, from trials riding this gets exposed to much water,sand,grit and i repack ..
pull springs off shock(s) and feel if dampening is working ....
most important...wash bike before starting, have good lighting so you can see small problem areas
do not rush and doublecheck bolts and nuts tight,
very very important point....chain can be toooo tight and cause major problems,
different swingarm pivot and engine sprocket pivot points mean chain tightens or loosens as swingarm pivots
list goes on and on actually about more stuff to refresh.. like if bike also has rear linkage...

"While I'm in there I might as well..." That's a dangerous rabbit hole to go down. Next thing you know you're welding your crank, and zinc plating float bowl screws...

[hillsy]

You're selling the bike?

Your chain will be fine