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    valve lapping process

    Does anybody have any helpful advice on getting the suction cup to stay on the valve when lapping? This one that I am using is fighting me every step of the way.
    Especially the exhaust valve with their smaller size. I'm even considering a drop of glue on the cup but then it will just take some heat to make it release when I finish each valve.

    I am currently on my 3rd and final pass on each valve as I started with the compound straight out of the tube then adding a couple of drops of water for the 2nd pass and now that I am on the final pass with even a finer grit the darn cup just does not want to cooperate.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks
    Larry

    '79 GS 1000E
    '93 Honda ST 1100 SOLD-- now residing in Arizona.
    '18 Triumph Tiger 800 (gone too soon)
    '19 Triumph Tiger 800 Christmas 2018 to me from me.
    '01 BMW R1100RL project purchased from a friend, now for sale.

    #2
    Sounds like you should just stop. Lapping is just to clean the debris/burrs off the seat, not to renew the seats. People that hammer away at the valves risk creating grooves in the valves and wearing down the seat.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      you're probably right. Also sounds like a good idea to me to stop.
      Larry

      '79 GS 1000E
      '93 Honda ST 1100 SOLD-- now residing in Arizona.
      '18 Triumph Tiger 800 (gone too soon)
      '19 Triumph Tiger 800 Christmas 2018 to me from me.
      '01 BMW R1100RL project purchased from a friend, now for sale.

      Comment


        #4
        get some fuel hose and run it over the valve stem and pull down from underneath, presuming you have the head on V-blocks or a friend holding onto it as half the head hanging over the bench if ure game. simple

        Comment


          #5
          Agreed, do it from the stem side. Those cups are worthless. I’ve used a tap holder lightly clamped on the valve stem.
          -1980 GS1100 LT
          -1975 Honda cb750K
          -1972 Honda cl175
          - Currently presiding over a 1970 T500

          Comment


            #6
            I use a short piece of hose (breather hose works well) pressed over a bolt head that is chucked into my cordless drill. No suction involved, just friction. However, since you need to apply a bit of pressure to take advantage of that friction, it also applies that pressure to the valve face, making it VERY hard to turn. I just press on the valve stem with my finger, then turn the drill on and spin the valve. Light pressure is accomplished by allowing the valve to seat lightly while spinning.

            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for all the good suggestions. I never thought about doing it from the opposite side.

              Anyway, after stepping away from it for 4 hours, when I went back to it, I was able to get the job done.
              Larry

              '79 GS 1000E
              '93 Honda ST 1100 SOLD-- now residing in Arizona.
              '18 Triumph Tiger 800 (gone too soon)
              '19 Triumph Tiger 800 Christmas 2018 to me from me.
              '01 BMW R1100RL project purchased from a friend, now for sale.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Steve View Post
                I use a short piece of hose (breather hose works well) pressed over a bolt head that is chucked into my cordless drill. No suction involved, just friction. However, since you need to apply a bit of pressure to take advantage of that friction, it also applies that pressure to the valve face, making it VERY hard to turn. I just press on the valve stem with my finger, then turn the drill on and spin the valve. Light pressure is accomplished by allowing the valve to seat lightly while spinning.

                .
                There is a video of this on Basscliff's site
                Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

                1981 GS550T - My First
                1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
                2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

                Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
                Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
                and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

                Comment


                  #9
                  I held a ball point pen against the center of the valve while spinning it with a piece of hose and a cordless drill.
                  2002 bmw r1150gs 1978 gs1000E skunk les pew 1979 gs1000L dragbike
                  82 gs1100L probably the next project
                  1980 gs1000G the ugly 1978 gs750E need any parts?
                  https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m_m2oYJkx1A
                  1978 gs1000E skunk #2 RLAP
                  https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2f1debec_t.jpg

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The last few valve jobs I had done didn't cost very much and didn't need to be lapped. Ive had a couple machine shops tell me that with any type of decent valve job equipment that they seat immediately. So why do want to lap them?
                    1982 GS1100E "Jolene"

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by TxGSrider View Post
                      The last few valve jobs I had done didn't cost very much and didn't need to be lapped. Ive had a couple machine shops tell me that with any type of decent valve job equipment that they seat immediately. So why do want to lap them?
                      Probably because he didn't have a valve job performed.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                        Probably because he didn't have a valve job performed.
                        If im going to go through the work pull the head off and remove the valves, its getting a valve job and new seals at the least. But I understand.
                        1982 GS1100E "Jolene"

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Valve job was not necessary. Just needed to be lapped. And yes, new seals installed. Cylinders honed and new rings -- trying to reduce the oil consumption.
                          Larry

                          '79 GS 1000E
                          '93 Honda ST 1100 SOLD-- now residing in Arizona.
                          '18 Triumph Tiger 800 (gone too soon)
                          '19 Triumph Tiger 800 Christmas 2018 to me from me.
                          '01 BMW R1100RL project purchased from a friend, now for sale.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I think it kind of depends on what resources are available in your area. I lapped the valves on mine instead of sending it to the machine shop to do after they charged me $68 to drill out an exhaust stud and put in a heli-coil.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              thing is never take a bike head to a car place. well infact any plce unless you know they do great work. Most car places just "attack" a head and leave it with deep valve seats. true there are some good places but just be carefull where you take your pride and joy. We always lapped the valves in even when the head was done on a serdi.

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