getting a stuck shim out

[Buffalo Bill]

I changed my shims yesterday. When it was obvious getting them out was frustrating, I just took the bearing caps off and lifted the cams a bit out of the way.
This included pulling the airbox, carbs and removing the cam chain tensioner. Having already done it a few times recently, I can do it quickly now.
I did not have to undo the throttle and choke cables, just swing the cabs away from the cam tensioner.
The serious part of re-installing the cams is aligning all the timing marks and counting exactly 20 chain pins between the sprocket marks.
Check the manual illustration.

[Steve]

I have never had a shim that was "stuck" enough to warrant all THAT effort.

And we have it MUCH easier with our shafties, I can't imagine suggesting that to someone with a 550 or 650.

.

[TeamDar]

Wow, sure is an awful lot of problems. Just use the factory Suzuki tool (not the aftermarket one). Pop the shim loose with a thin screwdriver and pull out with tweezers. No fuss no muss.

[Gorminrider]

I just took the bearing caps off and lifted the cams a bit out of the way.

it's way easier than yours on my 650! but Actually this has advantages.. especially on a new-to-me bike's first valve adjust. I write down all the clearances beforehand and then see what thickness each corresponding shim is. It can save me getting more shims because I can often play "musical chairs" with the shims aboard , on the next valve adjustment- once you have checked the clearances, you can lift the cams and do all the changes at once.

[Rijko]

I just took the bearing caps off and lifted the cams a bit out of the way.

that should not be necessary.
If there are no serious problems, lifting the cams to get shims out
is not needed.

The Suzuki tool gives enough clearance to take the shim out,
and the shims will leave the buckets easily with the help
of a small screwdriver.
If not, there is an issue with the shims and/or buckets.

[Buffalo Bill]

I have never had a shim that was "stuck" enough to warrant all THAT effort.

And we have it MUCH easier with our shafties, I can't imagine suggesting that to someone with a 550 or 650.

.

Well, I also got the hang of pulling the carbs off my 550, but that was a long learning curve.
The problem with my 1100G yesterday was: I bought shims from Z1, and they don't have the rounded edges the OEM shims have, so they're kinda hard to seat and also hard to remove.
Plus I had the ebay version shim tool, manufactured rather sloppy. Plus on the inner exhaust valves the handle was restricted by the frame. Had to take it to the next level.
I got 2 outer intake shims changed using the tool, but it wasn't gonna work for the inner exhaust valves.
Just did a 14 mile test ride in 32º weather, worked great considering the cold.

[chuck hahn]

Is the bucket depressed enough for adequate clearance? If the zip tie method is used, is said zip tie thick enough to hold the valves open substantially?

[timebombprod]

The Hemostat! Best damn roach clip ever made.

lmaoo thats not tweezers thats a roach clip

[LAB3]

The problem with my 1100G yesterday was: I bought shims from Z1, and they don't have the rounded edges the OEM shims have, so they're kinda hard to seat and also hard to remove.
.

It was 85° and sunny here yesterday, I measured and ordered shims from Z1 a couple of weeks back and got down to swapping them out. Ran into the same issue, the lack of bevel and really tight clearances around the edges made getting them in square a real PITA.

The local auto parts chain store not only doesn't have B8ES in stock but they have to make a special order to get them! Heading out for a 25 mile trip to get some in a bit, then a carb sync.

[Steve]

The local auto parts chain store not only doesn't have B8ES in stock but they have to make a special order to get them! Heading out for a 25 mile trip to get some in a bit, then a carb sync.

If you have to order them, check them before you leave the store.

I have found two variations at the local Auto Zone. They are both B8ES, but have different sub-numbers. One has a screw-off tip, the other does not. If you have stock wires and caps, you need the one with the screw-off tip.

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[LAB3]

If you have to order them, check them before you leave the store.

I have found two variations at the local Auto Zone. They are both B8ES, but have different sub-numbers. One has a screw-off tip, the other does not. If you have stock wires and caps, you need the one with the screw-off tip.

.

Looks like I've been making a mistake and you're a good person to ask. B8ES has been superceded by BR8ES. From my auto parts store experience in the 70's I've been assuming that the R means resistor and passing up those based on that assumption. Sure enough, the store had the BR8ES which as no biggie, it got me out if the house.

Came back here and started digging. Some sources say the R means removable tip (unscrew cap for stud) while others definitely label them as resistor. Since my caps are already 5k I didn't think it was a good idea to add more.

The Champions in there now are definitely NOT resistor and nobody seems to have them, those where bought last year. Most B8ES on eBay are actually BR8ES with a few showing a picture marked B8ES, they're asking a good penny for those.

[LAB3]

Forgot to add. The store here in town cannot order them directly and have to make a call somewhere and I'd have to buy a minimum of eight. If they're no longer being made and going for $5 each on eBay I just might buy a few boxes and sell them there. Having a need to ship them gives me a legit reason to be on the road, we're on lockdown ad of 5pm.

[Grimly]

BR8ES are most definitely resistor plugs. NGK should know, they label them.
They haven't superceded B8ES in any way - B8ES is still current production.
You won't cause any harm to your ignitor or anything else if you have to fit resistor plugs if that's all you can get - the engine will still run fine.

[LAB3]

BR8ES are most definitely resistor plugs. NGK should know, they label them.
They haven't superceded B8ES in any way - B8ES is still current production.
You won't cause any harm to your ignitor or anything else if you have to fit resistor plugs if that's all you can get - the engine will still run fine.

You can do a search on the NGK website (North America) for technical specs, at the end of the B8ES sheet it says "While supplies last" Yes, I've seen the word superceded used a few times. I'm not concerned with damage or anything like that, this is more an ecxcersize in curiosity than anything else. And of course writing conspiracy stories about illegal importation like I did last weekend, just for fun

[Grimly]

You can do a search on the NGK website (North America) for technical specs, at the end of the B8ES sheet it says "While supplies last" Yes, I've seen the word superceded used a few times. I'm not concerned with damage or anything like that, this is more an ecxcersize in curiosity than anything else. And of course writing conspiracy stories about illegal importation like I did last weekend, just for fun

Must be a recent thing, and perhaps they're withdrawing them from the N.American market first. Odd, because the B8ES is one of the world's most common plugs. In my opinion they're in error as describing the B8ES as being superceded by the BR8ES, because they're different.
In my own case I'm running non-resistor lead and caps along with BR8ES, but if I wasn't doing that, I'd want standard B8ES instead. I won't be happy if I can't get standard plugs when I need them.