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I have noticed a few posts mentioning trouble bleeding brakes. I just did mine and it was quick with no problems. Here is what I did. To start, use the old conventional method. Pump, hold, open bleeded, close bleeder, pump up again. You need to do this a few times to get the fluid through the master cyl. Then, with a hose on the bleeder and in a container, open the bleeder about 1/6 turn, one flat, and pump away. If the fluid in the resevoir isn't going down the bleeder is open too far and it is sucking back through the hose too much. Of course don't run the resevoir dry. The bleeder should be open enough to provide a little resistance while actuating the brake lever. Here is the reasoning, especially for the front. If you use the conventional method of pumping, holding, opening up the bleeder, closing the bleeder etc. any air that is in the vertical front hoses will be forced down when you open the bleeder, but when you are closing and pumping up again, that air bubble is going to be rising back up to where it was. You end up moving the air down and up over and over again and getting no where. By using a hose on the bleeder and leaving it open a little you can quickly pump a resevoir full through and force the air down and out, not giving it time to rise back up in the lines. If the wheel cylinder sucks a little back in through the bleeder when you let off for another stroke it doesn't mater because the hose is full of fluid anyway. End the process with a few conventional pumps opening and closing the bleeder to ensure there isn't any air in the wheel cyl. and you are good to go. I ran about 4 resevoirs full through. One on the left, one on the right, repeat. Brakes seemed fine.
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makes sense
What you're saying makes sense, I had a hard time bleeding my front brakes when I replaced the hose. Ended up taking the hose off and holding my finger over the hole on the hole on the resevoir until I could get some back pressure and reinstalling the line.
I'll try your method when I replace the fluid this spring.....Mike -
Rear ?
Any advice on bleeding the rear brake system?
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brake bleeding
When I bleed my brakes I allways take the lever/master cyl assembly off the bike and fit it to an old clip on fixed to the bench. Two reasons realy - 1 it keeps the cyl level for filling and 2 I dont have to worry about brake fluid on the paintwork.Comment
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Pick up a set of Speedbleeders. I bought some a few months ago, and it'll be one of my first purchases for any future bikes.Comment
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I wanna get these speed bleeders, they seem like a nifty little invention, does anyone know what size I'd need? I think it's the M6x1.00, but I'm not sure...Comment
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Recently got a Vacu-mite(sp)...it's a hand-held vacuum pump w/gauge that can also generate pressure. Comes with a canister that you hook to the bleeder, attach the pump to canister, open bleeder, squeeze the pump handle, and voila' sucks fluid/air out, in a flash. You can completely change brake fluid in minutes with no mess. I know it sounds like an infomercial, but works great! Also works as just a vacuum gauge, checks operation of fuel petcocks and probably a dozen other things I haven't thought of yet. The kit has about 20 hose adaptors and several pieces of flex hose for hook-ups. Cost about $75.00 USD
HughComment
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My Haynes motorcycle maintenance handbook sugest a neet alternative to vacum pumps.
Get a clean oiler, fill it with brake fluid, attach a ruber hose on it, place the other end on the bleeder and pump brake oil in.
They call it reverse bleeding ie getting brake oil in from the bleeder up to the reservoir, I gess this way the air bubles will be pushed up. What do you think? I got an oiler and I will give it a try soon.
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Sounds good on paper.....don't let the resovoir over-fill!
HughComment
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I also have a vaccum type brake bleeder, Mytivac I think. The problem that I have run across with this type of system is that the OEM bleeder valves leak air through the thread area into the expelled brake fluid stream so I cannot tell when the air is out of the system. I have tried wrapping the bleeder threads with teflon tape but it is not much better. Anybody have any other ideas on how to stop the air leakage? I noticed on the speed bleeders there seems to be a coating. Any idea on what this coating is?Originally posted by hp1000sComment
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I was shopping for one of those bleeders and my understanding is that they are provided with different adaptors to insure they are tight. You could check to see if they provide tighter adapters.Comment
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Air bleeding
The problem is that the air is being sucked down through the threaded portion of the bleeder valve shaft that goes into the caliper and is then being sucked back up through the inside of the valve along with the brake fluid. It is not introducing air into the brake fluid because it is being sucked out, but it is making it mighty difficult to determine when all the air that was in the line before bleeding is actually out.Originally posted by michelComment
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I've used heavy grease on the threads to eliminate the by-passing....that extra air from around the threads of the bleeder(if you're having this problem) is a consistently teeny-tiny stream of bubbles that indicate to me
that the system is purged of air.
HughComment
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Wingnut, could you make ilustration
......... its been 3 days no success . I changed the fluid and now I have a brake good enough for upto 20mph. no enough pressure,
the hose on the nipple, to collect the oil or it is for other purpose as well ?
P.S 3 days working on it......... for 2-3 hour each day
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I installed a set of speedbleeders last weekend on my CBR, I dont know how I've lived without these things? It took me less than 10 minutes to completely bleed my brakes and the lever has never felt so firm.
ToddComment
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