Suspension Advise for a 83 GS1100E

[Samelak]

I have been pouring through threads over the past few weeks and found some good info…but not everything I need to make a decision. I am currently giving my 83 GS1100E a full frame up resto. I’m now at the brake and front fork rebuild stage. I have no intention of putting on forks or brakes from another bike because I want to maintain the original appearance as much as possible unless rebuild parts are not available to do the job right. So far, I replace the front master cylinder with a 2001 SV650 unit because the rebuild parts are not available for 83…no big deal because it looks darn near the same. Looks like the caliper rebuild kits are available so should be good there as well. New brake lines are a must and will probably go stainless (Speigler?). I was going to attempt cleaning up my rear shocks but after disassembling, decided to go with some Ikon shocks. This leaves me with the front forks next. Last time I rode the bike was in 2006. I was a lot younger, bit lighter and more aggressive of a rider. To me, the stock bike handled fine. I am no longer an “aggressive” rider…especially in the turns. I just like a strong, comfortable ride that is spirited on occasion. So here are my questions:

- Do I need to upgrade my springs and install cartridge emulators (Racetech)? I put these into my 80 CBX and liked them…but are they necessary for what I want for the GS?

- Anti-Dive…I remember the conversations from years ago on these. From what I read, if I go with the cartridges, they are no longer a player, but if I remain with stock springs I can keep or block off. So what is the argument for or against the anti-dive system? Are the anti-dive units rebuildable…do they even need to be rebuilt? Is it even worth keeping them?

I’m willing to spend some cash, but not drop a thousand into antiquated suspension to be able to ride a way I have no intention of doing.

Thanks

[Rob S.]

I don't think emulators are necessary. New straight rate springs (Racetech) are sufficient, just take into account that you're gaining weight.

I believe my anti-dive units are blocked off, and, even though I have the parts to restore it, I believe the front air system is more work than it's worth, so I just ignore it.

[RichDesmond]

Agree with Rob, Just new springs and oil (10w) is all you need. The bike will handle and brake better, and also be more comfortable.
If you need help selecting a spring rate just ping me.

(Shame I'm not in Oklahoma City any more, I'd have been happy to help with it.)

[Samelak]

I could use help with spring selection. I saw in other threads that show various methods to block them off, but there is a bolt on product that looks nice and clean. I also want to reduce future maintenance so if they are not needed, then I can live without them.

[RichDesmond]

I could use help with spring selection. I saw in other threads that show various methods to block them off, but there is a bolt on product that looks nice and clean. I also want to reduce future maintenance so if they are not needed, then I can live without them.

For the spring rate, I'll just need to know your weight.

[Rijko]

I read "the stock bike handled fine", "I am no longer an “aggressive” rider".
The original forks were ok, so my question on other springs is ... why ?

I am restoring a '81 GSX1100ET (GS1100ET in the US) front fork, the one with leading front axle.
These were not as good as the '83 forks but that was only when used on the limit.
I keep them stock, they handle well enough for normal use.

[RichDesmond]

I read "the stock bike handled fine", "I am no longer an “aggressive” rider".
The original forks were ok, so my question on other springs is ... why ?

I am restoring a '81 GSX1100ET (GS1100ET in the US) front fork, the one with leading front axle.
These were not as good as the '83 forks but that was only when used on the limit.
I keep them stock, they handle well enough for normal use.

See post # 3above. For the average, non-aggressive rider the biggest advantages are better emergency braking, and greater comfort. Well worth the $130, IMO.

[Samelak]

For the spring rate, I'll just need to know your weight.

With full gear, I range right around 240 pounds.

[RichDesmond]

With full gear, I range right around 240 pounds.

For the riding your doing, get some 1.0 springs and 10w fork oil.
Another vendor option is Sonic Springs:

http://sonicsprings.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=31_222&osCsid=a03rpoo9vj2fcqirbdg2r8g2n00d42g4

Full disclosure, I used to own the company. Sold it back in 2019, no current interest.

[Samelak]

Thanks and I assume no advantage going with Racetech or Sonic Springs?

[RichDesmond]

Thanks and I assume no advantage going with Racetech or Sonic Springs?

No, the springs are essentially identical.

[Rob S.]

For the riding your doing, get some 1.0 springs and 10w fork oil.

I would have thought at least 1.1. I got .9 a number of years ago, but I should have gone higher (I was 170 in leather). I believe Racetech has a chart on their website.

[RichDesmond]

I would have thought at least 1.1. I got .9 a number of years ago, but I should have gone higher (I was 170 in leather). I believe Racetech has a chart on their website.

For someone riding harder, maybe. For the average everyday cruising/touring/commuting rider the 1.0s will be plenty.

[Samelak]

I finally have the forks rebuilt with sonic springs and I also eliminated the anti-dive valves. So do I still need to add air to the shocks?

It was recommended not to add air to my CBX forks after I installed race tech springs. It rides fine without the air.

[RichDesmond]

I finally have the forks rebuilt with sonic springs and I also eliminated the anti-dive valves. So do I still need to add air to the shocks?

It was recommended not to add air to my CBX forks after I installed race tech springs. It rides fine without the air.

No added air, the better springs don't need the "assist".