Brake pad advice

[LAB3]

I'm running Versah branded pads both front and rear on my bike, 20k miles on them and I bought another set "just in case" to replace them. Probably could have gotten another 10k from my fronts, the rear was close to needing replacement. Can't say I've measured my rotors before and after but judging by the looks I don't have anything to complain about and at $20 for all three calipers I'm quite happy with the results.

[bwringer]

Anything to be said for just ordering the OEM pads if you can get them (Kawasaki)? My feeling is that's probably one of those things where the manufacturer's name doesn't mean too much, and aftermarket stuff is probably better.

I can get them for the ZX-11, but they're $55-56/set (or over $160 to outfit front and rear). Looks like I need them now or very soon (rears not wearing evenly from what I could tell with a mirror, while adjusting the chain today.

In many motorcycles, the OEM pads are heavily biased toward longevity, and so aftermarket pads often give you a worthwhile upgrade in braking power and feel, at the expense of some pad life. For example, this is the case on my 2015 Yamaha FJ-09, wearing middle of the road Tokico calipers. The stock pads wear like iron, and EBC HH pads are a fairly universal and worthwhile upgrade if you're not overly concerned about making your brake pads last 50,000 miles.

The same principle applies to the '80s Suzuki GS models, too. Stock pads last nearly forever, and 40 years of aging make them even harder and slippery-er. Installing a good name brand "organic" pad brings significant benefits, even though they don't last as long. (The rotors are too soft to last with modern sintered pads.) And even ordinary brake pad technology has improved quite a bit since the '80s.

I'd guess that this mostly applies to OEM calipers and pads from Tokico and similar midlevel stuff.


That said, sporty or premium models often come with high-end calipers (for example, the Brembos found on many Euro-bikes), and so the OEM pads are far more worthwhile. They came with very good stuff, so aftermarket might not actually be an upgrade.

The ZX-11 was something of a flagship model, so I'd have to check the accumulated wisdom of the ZX-11 forums before automatically assuming aftermarket would be better.

[JMHJ]

Just saw this last post (I don't get notifications, if that's possible). I ordered some EBC High Performance Organic ones last night. Less than $60 for front and rear. I definitely don't want to wear out my rotors unnecessarily, so sounds like I got the right thing...?

This has aftermarket front rotors (they look pretty good, actually), but probably a stock rear. I'll inspect those closer when I change the pads.

Tires will be the next planned thing. It's got Pirelli Angel something or other. They seem just fine, so I'll probably go back with those. I'm within just over a couple hundred miles of hitting 80,000 miles; 5,000 miles of that is mine since last December : ). Still real happy with it overall.

[hank2]

Another new fan of the EBC semi-sintered pads. I've been running a set for 2 seasons. I'd say they are closer to an organic than a full sintered, but definitely have a little better bite than organics. Pretty predictable feel. They also added some noticable braking to the rear vs. organic.

[JMHJ]

Got the front brakes done; well, the pads replaced anyway. Calipers probably need attention since the wear was uneven. Checked the rear pads closer but didn't change them; looked like it could go a little longer even though one pad was worn worse. Fronts were BAD - one pad on each. Real good feel on the test ride (EBC organic), immediate difference, but didn't tax them.

Old pads were Galfer...

Oh, the price for those was closer to $90 for all of them (I said $60). I only ordered one set for the front initially, thinking it would be both sides (lol). The price should've told me it wasn't.

[salty_monk]

Two things I've picked up with aftermarket brake pads over the years in general not just the GS....

Make sure the backing plates are the correct size, some brands I've had to relieve with a file to make sure they move in the caliper properly. If it catches then generally it will make the brake drag (or stick on).

Be wary of cheaper pads when they get low on friction material. One way they save $$ is to use a thinner backing plate. If your rotors are a bit worn, backing plate a bit thinner & the pads are worn out there is a danger that the pads have excess tolerance and can drop out of the caliper. I've only seen it happen twice but it does happen....

[bwringer]

Two things I've picked up with aftermarket brake pads over the years in general not just the GS....

Make sure the backing plates are the correct size, some brands I've had to relieve with a file to make sure they move in the caliper properly. If it catches then generally it will make the brake drag (or stick on).

Be wary of cheaper pads when they get low on friction material. One way they save $$ is to use a thinner backing plate. If your rotors are a bit worn, backing plate a bit thinner & the pads are worn out there is a danger that the pads have excess tolerance and can drop out of the caliper. I've only seen it happen twice but it does happen....

Agreed... whatever the vehicle, pay very close attention to brake pad fitment. If you need to do much fettling.... reconsider. Low quality in the parts you can see will certainly also mean low quality in the compounding as well.


I've tried cheaper pads (why, O why, do motorcycle brake pads cost so %$#@! much?) that actually seemed to work fine at first, but scared the absolute poo out of me in the first hard rain.

In addition to thickness and overall shape, there is a very difficult balance that needs to be achieved in the compound for street usage. You need pads that last a decent number of miles, that don't damage the rotors, and have good, predictable, progressive friction characteristics in the dry (not too "grabby", just grabby enough...).

It seems that the hardest part to get just right is behavior in the wet. What you want is consistent, predictable friction, so you know exactly what you're going to get when you grab the lever. The major brand "organic" pads are the best in this regard, hands-down. Just when proper braking is most difficult, you have what you need, predictability.

Personally, I've found that sintered pads, like EBC HH, give up a little something in this regard on modern bikes, but it's at a more or less acceptable level. In return, you get better grab and power in the dry.

However, the cheaper pads I've tried (and I've tried several) seem to turn greasy in the wet. Worse, once they finally sweep the water off the rotor, they grab suddenly. So you get a sphincter-clenching endless moment of little or no braking action, you pull the lever even harder, then two or three turns of the front wheel later, there's a sudden grab. Not good for continued verticality.

[salty_monk]

Yeah brake pads aren't a place to go cheap... Luckily we don't have to deal with the wet weather much here, the sun is shining today