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gs450l bearing outer race stuck in front wheel

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    gs450l bearing outer race stuck in front wheel

    so im replacing the bearings in the front wheel cause they're nasty, corroded, and making a lot of noise
    i was able to pop out one of them very easily, but the bearing on the side of the wheel that the speedo puck goes on fell apart.
    the outer race is stuck in its hole, and i cant pound it out from the other side.

    what tool do i use to get this thing out, preferably without destroying the wheel? i thought about a bearing puller, but there's literally no gap for a blind puller to get under.
    1985 Suzuki GS450L

    #2
    I have an old round chisel with a deformed spreaded end that just manages to catch on the bearing outer and by working it around with small blows, the outer will come out eventually. Sometimes heating the bearing housing will be necessary. If you're lucky, there may be a notch ground in the inner shoulder of the bearing seat (inside the wheel) that allows a thin podger to get into the remaining race.
    ---- Dave

    Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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      #3
      Do you have access to a milling machine? We used to just use an end mill to mill to the edge of the outside bearing race, on Helicopter transmission casings, when your within 0.002"" it will collapse inwards. You can do the same thing with a Dremel tool, just be very careful not to hit the outside (into the rim). If you use a Dremel tool, you will find as you get very close, you can probably collapse it in with a very good, big punch (make sure it has a sharp edge, a flat, sharp edge, round, not a "chisel") so it can bite into the edge of the bearing. This will make it collapse, after you Dremel off a large part of it.

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        #4
        If you have access to a welder, lay 2 welds on the race, 1" long on opposite sides.
        When the weld cools it will shrink the race and if it does not simply fall out,
        a screwdriver will probably pry it out easy.

        Or weld a piece of metal across the race so you have something to hit to drive it out,
        but that's hardly ever needed as the welds alone will do the job 99% of the time.
        Last edited by Rijko; 07-06-2023, 10:46 AM.
        Rijk

        Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

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          #5
          That'll work.

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            #6
            i was able to use a dremel with a reinforced cut wheel to make enough of a slot on the backside to get a screwdriver in from the opposite side and pound it out that way. new bearing went in with no trouble at the same depth as the previous one
            1985 Suzuki GS450L

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              #7
              Cool, you got it fixed
              Rijk

              Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

              CV Carb rebuild tutorial
              VM Carb rebuild tutorial
              Bikecliff's website
              The Stator Papers

              "The thing about freedom - it's never free"

              Comment


                #8
                I'm happy the Dremel tool worked. I've used that method many times. Those Dremel tools can be worth their weight in gold sometimes. Glad you got it out.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I was just about to suggest the dremel route as well, but I gotta say, the welding one I quite like too.
                  #1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread        New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
                  #2: 1978 GS 550 EC "Blue" – Can't make it a donor / "Rebuild" thread     Manuals (and much more): See Cliff's homepage here
                  #3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
                  #4: 1980 Moto Guzzi V65C – Something to chill

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                    #10
                    When I did this kind of work for a living, the transmission housings were made of Magnesium, so you could not use anything that sparked, or gave sparks. Welding was out of the question. Dremel tools were out. Carbide End Mills, plunging at 0.002" at each time, with a 1" column of coolant was all you could use, and Carbide End Mills will cut through a bearing race. This is how Sikorsky Aircraft does it on their transmissions housing, on all models, when they rebuild them. The races are also bonded in with a proprietary bonding agent. For any other metal, if you have a welder, I too would think that would make quick work of it.

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                      #11
                      The Pit posse extractor is really good & pretty cheap... With our small axles you can approximate something like it using a "red head" type wedge anchor bolt from Home Depot....
                      1980 GS1000G - Sold
                      1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                      1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                      1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                      2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                      1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                      2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                      www.parasiticsanalytics.com

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