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    Clutch Engagement Point

    I’ve adjusted the clutch push rod screw, the bottom cable adjuster and the lever adjuster to 4mm like the manual says. The engagement point is still happening with the lever fully out. I’ve messed with different settings for the adjusters and it never changes the engagement point. Any ideas? Are my clutch rings or springs bad?t
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    #2
    Is the actuator arm (if that's what it's called) at the proper angle? Unfortunately, your bike doesn't have it outside the case, like my '82 11E (and most other bikes I'm familiar with). Which reminds me: you didn't tell us what model or year you're riding.
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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      #3
      There isn't really a way to adjust the engagement point. The adjusters are there to remove cable free-play. As soon as the push rod starts to lift the pressure plate you are disengaging the clutch. If you want to have the clutch engaging earlier in the lever travel you have to live with cable free-play, the spring on the actuator lever under the cover is there to take up that extra cable play. You might want to measure the thickness of your clutch friction plates, but if it isn't slipping, your probably ok.


      "Johnny the boy has done it again... This time its a scrubber"
      Dazza from Kiwiland
      GSX1100SXZ, GSX750SZ, GS650GZ All Katanas, all 1982

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