I was also planning on ordering all new OEM crush washers as well, for the banjos. Other than the rubber diaphragm inside the lid, are there any other rubber bits in the front master cylinder I can/should replace as well, rebuild kit, etc. Z1 has a rear master rebuild kit, anyone have any positive results with it? I already have OEM caliper seals and rebuild parts, along with new brake pads and some new fluid. Thanks for any help you folks can give me!
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Turtleface
Stainless Lines Parts List
Ok, ready to order the bits to put together my stainless lines. I'll be keeping it simple, running one line from the master, to the right caliper, and a line from the right caliper via double banjo bolt to the left caliper. Is it worth it do the rear line as well? I may do it for aesthetic appeal, even if it doesn't offer any appreciable performance gain. For ends, I was going to use the normal (stock) sized straight fittings. One adjustable, and one non-adjustable, per hose. In stainless steel, naturally. How many feet of hose would I need? I assume the hose ends come with the ferrules/olives? I was planning on ordering these items from AN Plumbing.com.
I was also planning on ordering all new OEM crush washers as well, for the banjos. Other than the rubber diaphragm inside the lid, are there any other rubber bits in the front master cylinder I can/should replace as well, rebuild kit, etc. Z1 has a rear master rebuild kit, anyone have any positive results with it? I already have OEM caliper seals and rebuild parts, along with new brake pads and some new fluid. Thanks for any help you folks can give me!Last edited by Guest; 04-09-2010, 12:32 PM.Tags: None
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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Those K&L brake system parts suck; I've seen bad master kits and bad caliper piston seals. Get OE.
Regarding the brake line build, did you see this thread? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=114521
Definetly do the back at the same time as the front. The rubber lines develop scale inside that needs to come out of the system.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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I have run the same set-up on the front of a couple of bikes now, getting ready to do another one soon. I would suggest straight fittings for the crossover line, but use an angled fitting on the end of the line from the MC to the double banjo bolt.
I run that MC feed line through the rubber guide that holds the speedo cable - I think it looks nice & keeps it from floping around. Also, before you put that last fitting on the crossover line, slide 2 small piecs of rubber hose up the hose to push into those brake line brackets. It will secure the hose nicely over the fender.
Z1 sells a 10-pack of replacement crush washers cheap.'85 GS550L - SOLD
'85 GS550E - SOLD
'82 GS650GL - SOLD
'81 GS750L - SOLD
'82 GS850GL - trusty steed
'80 GS1100L - son's project bike
'82 GS1100G - SOLD
'81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)
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Turtleface
Originally posted by Nessism View PostThose K&L brake system parts suck; I've seen bad master kits and bad caliper piston seals. Get OE.
Regarding the brake line build, did you see this thread? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=114521
Definetly do the back at the same time as the front. The rubber lines develop scale inside that needs to come out of the system.Last edited by Guest; 04-09-2010, 02:36 PM.
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