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    Contaminated pads?

    Now that I think I have all the air out of the lines the bike still doesn't really stop with the front brake. They weren't good before I rebuilt the caliper and since the caliper was leaking fluid is it possible the pads are contaminated by the brake fluid?
    I am low on funds right now so I have the $$$ to just throw parts at it.

    I really miss riding it though.

    What are your thoughts?

    #2
    Originally posted by vista461 View Post
    Now that I think I have all the air out of the lines the bike still doesn't really stop with the front brake. They weren't good before I rebuilt the caliper and since the caliper was leaking fluid is it possible the pads are contaminated by the brake fluid?
    I am low on funds right now so I have the $$$ to just throw parts at it.

    I really miss riding it though.

    What are your thoughts?
    I think Salty said if they were sintered pads you could throw them into a fire to burn stuff off. Would not do that with organic pads through.

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      #3
      How do I tell the difference? I saw some goldish colored specks in them if that helps.

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        #4
        Originally posted by vista461 View Post
        How do I tell the difference? I saw some goldish colored specks in them if that helps.
        try some brake cleaner and see if that helps first.

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          #5
          You could try baking them in the oven for 1/2 hr maybe 300 degrees

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            #6
            Tried the brake cleaner already before I put it back together.
            Don't think the oven method would fly in my house. Lol

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              #7
              I have propane torch if that would work.

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                #8
                Just bring them to Lynn's

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                  #9
                  Well in checking a bit, it looks like they are organic pads. They are EBC's. Guess it's time for new pads it's a shame since they have a ton of life left.

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                    #10
                    You might want to try some 80 grit sandpaper and a flat surface. Sand off a thin layer to clean off the contaminated skin. Worth a shot. If that's a no go, I've got some decent used pads you can have. PM if you want to discuss.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                      #11
                      Did you let them bed in?
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                        Did you let them bed in?
                        No they were on the bike when I got it

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                          #13
                          Well took the calipers back off. Cleaned off the rotors and pads with brake cleaner. Sanded the pads a bit with 80 grit paper. Better but not all that great.

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                            #14
                            If they do in fact just need to bed in, would it be normal that until they do, the rear actually stops it faster than the front?

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