leaking forks....

[Sparky]

Apparently my forks leak out all the air after sitting so I guess I need to replace the seals. YES I have searched and read the info on cliffs site. My question thought is to just replace the seals to stop the leak do I need to build the special T-handle tool or is there some secret I can use? Reason I ask is I dont have a welder nor do I know anyone with one.

[Colin Green]

Apparently my forks leak out all the air after sitting so I guess I need to replace the seals. YES I have searched and read the info on cliffs site. My question thought is to just replace the seals to stop the leak do I need to build the special T-handle tool or is there some secret I can use? Reason I ask is I dont have a welder nor do I know anyone with one.

A threaded rod with a pair of hex head nuts on either end is a quick and easy tool or you can shove a broom handle into the fork leg to lock it in place.

[Macguyver]

A threaded rod with a pair of hex head nuts on either end is a quick and easy tool or you can shove a broom handle into the fork leg to lock it in place.

This is the reason I now have a useless 2' long broom at home.

[Baatfam]

I just zipped off the screws with an air impact...didn't have to hold the inside at all...
When I put them back together...a couple of long extension and a reversed spark plug socket worked for me...

As long as you're doing it...ditch the stock springs for some Progressives and you won't need air in the forks...

[Sparky]

awesome, thanks guys.

as for the progressive springs are they expensive? Im still on a budget fixing this bike as Im still searching for a job.

I really know nothing about this stuff as far as what springs to get, what size, etc...

[Baatfam]

awesome, thanks guys.

as for the progressive springs are they expensive? Im still on a budget fixing this bike as Im still searching for a job.

I understand completely...

They are less than $100...and worth it.
But if you can't do it now, they are easy to swap out later with the forks still on the bike...

[spyug]

I just wanted to add that the bolt holding the damper rod in place which you access at the bottom of the fork is held in by loctite.

Sometimes its hard to get loose and the whole damper rod keeps turning. I find a piece of broom handle doesn't do a good job of holding it and the threaded rod with locknuts is better but you will need a way of holding this steady. I usually weld a "T" handle on. I invert the fork and stand on the T handle to hold it then torque out the bolt with my air impact wrench ( to break the hold of the loctite). You could hold the threaded rod with vicegrips or mount it in a vice.

Once you have everything apart it, it is good to clean the gunge out of the lower fork leg with kerosene or naptha. I find a long handled bottle brush good for this. Scrub it well, drain off the fluid and wrap the bristles with paper towel to wipe it out.

Not a hard job once you get the damper rod out. Just watch for the other little bits that come out with it (spring, collet and washers).

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Cheers,
spyug

[Sparky]

well its for sure the seals. Just for shiggles I put air in the forks again and looked around and listened too and I found tiny bubbles coming from the seal and pushing a little bit of oil out with them. Oh well.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Lacking funds for Progressive springs, you could add some preload to the stock springs, Remove the existing spacer and make one with PVC pipe about an inch longer to replace it..

[Sparky]

would an inch really do anything though?