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Caliper Honing
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Caliper Honing
Wondering if anyone has honed brake calipers? I have them apart from 80 750E, they are not pitted but have some discoloration in the bore. I would like to salvage them if possible, pistons look really good.....Tags: None
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Originally posted by jwhelan65 View PostWondering if anyone has honed brake calipers? I have them apart from 80 750E, they are not pitted but have some discoloration in the bore. I would like to salvage them if possible, pistons look really good.....
used 1500-2000 grit on cam caps/saddles
I take the chromed pistons over to the buffing wheel with some Roche and get them real spiffy.
Don't let them fly across the room though.
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jwhelan65
Originally posted by posplayr View PostI take some 800 grit wet dry sand paper and clean the bores up use some wd-40 to keep it wet and then clean well.
used 1500-2000 grit on cam caps/saddles
I take the chromed pistons over to the buffing wheel with some Roche and get them real spiffy.
Don't let them fly across the room though.
I started to use 400 on them , I think they will be ok with new boots and seals. Just wondering if there were some kind of fancy hoing device.
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Mechanically speaking, the bores only need to be smooth enough for the pistons to slide freely. They don't need to be anywhere near polished. They can even have pits and gouges as long as the bore is mostly good. Just get all of the brake fluid residue out and test the piston action by hand. The pistons need to be smooth because they are a sealing surface. As long as the machining under the chrome is good, the pistons should be OK. The seal groove also needs to smooth over some contiguous surface around the OD (deepest part). Pits in the groove are permissible if they leave enough good material for the seal to, um, seal.Dogma
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O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David
Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan
--
'80 GS850 GLT
'80 GS1000 GT
'01 ZRX1200R
How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex
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Originally posted by Dogma View PostMechanically speaking, the bores only need to be smooth enough for the pistons to slide freely. They don't need to be anywhere near polished. They can even have pits and gouges as long as the bore is mostly good. Just get all of the brake fluid residue out and test the piston action by hand. The pistons need to be smooth because they are a sealing surface. As long as the machining under the chrome is good, the pistons should be OK. The seal groove also needs to smooth over some contiguous surface around the OD (deepest part). Pits in the groove are permissible if they leave enough good material for the seal to, um, seal.
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Originally posted by posplayr View PostIt is still a rubber seal running over metal, it needs to be pretty smooth . I would still go for nothing less than 800.Dogma
--
O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David
Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan
--
'80 GS850 GLT
'80 GS1000 GT
'01 ZRX1200R
How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex
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jwhelan65
Originally posted by Dogma View PostI'm not really following you here. The piston should be good from the manufacturer or as long as the chrome is intact in the sealing area. More polishing (without launching) won't hurt. The bore never interacts with the seal, so I guess that's not what you're referring to.
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Originally posted by Dogma View PostI'm not really following you here. The piston should be good from the manufacturer or as long as the chrome is intact in the sealing area. More polishing (without launching) won't hurt. The bore never interacts with the seal, so I guess that's not what you're referring to.
Still no reason to rough up the bores.
I was having a Mojito ; it is Fiesta
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35619
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Dogma is correct, smoothing the bore does nothing. Just make sure the groove area is clean and smooth. The pistons need to be smooth too. I don't polish but rather use a gray (fine) scotchbrite on the pistons if there is any crud.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostDogma is correct, smoothing the bore does nothing. Just make sure the groove area is clean and smooth. The pistons need to be smooth too. I don't polish but rather use a gray (fine) scotchbrite on the pistons if there is any crud.
You should try buffing the chrome, it works real well on fork stanchions as well. And from what I have heard the more polished the surface is the less likely rust is to form.
Jim
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almarconi
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