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    stuck calipers...

    My rear brake was stuck so i took it off and tried pushing the caliper back in and it will not budge at all. anything i can do to fix this??

    #2
    push harder?





    Also, soaking it in penetrating oil, then use a air compressor to blast it out.

    Some people like to keep it attached to the brake line and use the pressure there to blow out the piston.

    After all that youll likely need some new parts.

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      #3
      If it won't go back in, it's telling you that it's STUCK.
      If you force it back in, you will also have to force it OUT with the brake pedal.
      Personally, I prefer brakes that work EASILY.

      Take it apart to find out why it is stuck. You might find that simply cleaning it well will get you back in business. Use brake fluid pressure to push the piston out if it's still connected, otherwise, use compressed air. When the piston is out, clean all the crud that might be on it, make sure it is SMOOTH. Remove the seal from the bore, use a wire wheel in a Dremel tool to clean the groove where it sits. Flush everything with fresh brake fluid, re-assemble.

      While you are at it, be aware that a lot of that crud might have come downstream from the MASTER cylinder, so go ahead and take that apart and clean it, too.

      .
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        #4
        thanks guys for the ideas im going to try them out in the morning

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          #5
          Originally posted by 605Jake123 View Post
          My rear brake was stuck so i took it off and tried pushing the caliper back in and it will not budge at all. anything i can do to fix this??
          You have a rear caliper that's got mositure and corrosion in the piston bore. The ONLY correct way to fix this problem is to completely dissasemble the caliper, and use some fine emery cloth and polish the bore. Very common problem on 25 year old brake systems where the owner(s) never flushed the brake fluid.

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            #6
            Corrosion on the bore doesn't matter, it's the piston and seal groove that are important. Pitting on the piston means it's junk, the seal groove can be scrubbed out with scothbrite to remove corrosion. Also, when rebuilding calipers it's important to clean the sliding pins and assemble using high temp caliper grease. Replacing the brake line is manditory as well it you have the stock rubber lines still installed - the rubber deteriorates and scale forms on the inside so they need to be updated.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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              #7
              If the pistons are in any way damaged or corroded I replace with stainless ones. I use http://www.motorcycleproducts.co.uk/ where you can get stainless piston and seal kits as well as just the seals on their own. I am rebuilding a few calipers now and have cleaned them out using scotchbrite pads, toothbrushes, wet and dry paper (brake fluid instead of water!) and even bent split pins for getting into the seal groove!

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                #8
                This guy is the cheapest for stainless caliper pistons - under half the price of anyone else and top quality. Even if his shop is named RD Bitz!

                79 GS1000S
                79 GS1000S (another one)
                80 GSX750
                80 GS550
                80 CB650 cafe racer
                75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
                75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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