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Bolt and nut size for fork-damper removal?

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    Bolt and nut size for fork-damper removal?

    I need to change my fork seals on my 1979 GS 1000, and I have both a Suzuki shop manual and a Haynes manual. In the Haynes, which gives tips on how to do jobs without buying expensive specialty tools for what is a (hopefully) one-time job. Haynes recommends a bolt with two nuts jammed together on an extension to help remove the damper assembly. Does anyone know what size bolt and nuts are correct. Thanks.
    1979 GS 1000

    #2
    You need 1/2" threaded rod and nuts, which will end up 3/4" across the flats on the nuts. 3/4" is 19.05mm, close enough to 19mm that it doesn't matter. There's one type of 1/2" nut that is a different outside diameter, so make sure you get the right one.

    Metric hardware is still stupidly hard to find in the US for some reason.

    Alternatively, many people have had success with a cheapo spark plug socket (with 3/4" OD hex at the top) turned around backwards on a long extension. This has the advantage of allowing you to hold the assembly with a breaker bar.

    You might have to experiment with some different brands of spark plug sockets -- you have to pull out the rubber insert, and even then, some spark plug sockets won't allow an extension to come through the "wrong" way.
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      #3
      Originally posted by bwringer View Post
      Alternatively, many people have had success with a cheapo spark plug socket (with 3/4" OD hex at the top) turned around backwards on a long extension. This has the advantage of allowing you to hold the assembly with a breaker bar.

      You might have to experiment with some different brands of spark plug sockets -- you have to pull out the rubber insert, and even then, some spark plug sockets won't allow an extension to come through the "wrong" way.
      Yeah just use the 5/8 spark plug socket trick..

      I have 4 of them.. 2 cheep chrome vanadium and 2 craftsman..
      Only one of the craftsman will mount on the 3/8 drive upside down.. None of the CV ones.. they all have a lip inside that is in the way.


      Now there is another way.. the square end of a 1/2" drive extension is a nice fit in the hex end of a 5/8" spark plug socket.. slip it in there and wrap some electrical tape on so it won't fall off.. Instant tool and no hunting for the right kind of spark plug socket.
      Last edited by Guest; 08-25-2010, 12:43 AM.

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        #4
        If you want to do the threaded rod tool, here is what it should look like:





        .
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        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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          #5
          Try jamming it with a broom handle first - works most of the time.
          79 GS1000S
          79 GS1000S (another one)
          80 GSX750
          80 GS550
          80 CB650 cafe racer
          75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
          75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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            #6
            Not intentionally highjacking but I still don't understand what the use of the nuts are on the threaded tool? Do they hold something in place so it doesn't move?
            Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

            1981 GS550T - My First
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              #7
              Originally posted by cowboyup3371 View Post
              Not intentionally highjacking but I still don't understand what the use of the nuts are on the threaded tool? Do they hold something in place so it doesn't move?
              +1 What is the purpose?

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                #8
                It holds the damper from turning so you can remove the bolt from the bottom of the fork leg.
                Removing the bolt with an air impact with the springs still under compression in the forks works fine too.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

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                  #9
                  I have made a tool for this purpose.
                  Marc

                  https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ie_twisted.gif AIR COOLED MONSTERS NEVER DIE https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ie_twisted.gif
                  1978 GS1000C X2
                  1978 GS1000E X2
                  1979 GS1000S
                  1979 gs1000
                  1983 gs400e

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by kochic View Post
                    I have made a tool for this purpose.
                    That works great, if you have a welder. Some of us are limited to credit cards and adjustable spanners.

                    .
                    sigpic
                    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                    Family Portrait
                    Siblings and Spouses
                    Mom's first ride
                    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Steve View Post
                      That works great, if you have a welder. Some of us are limited to credit cards and adjustable spanners.

                      .
                      A credit card can get anything welded.
                      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                      Life is too short to ride an L.

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                        #12
                        The threaded rod-steve tool is great and cheap too.You can use a 1/2 deep nut in a 19mm box with a long extension too.
                        Marc
                        https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ie_twisted.gif AIR COOLED MONSTERS NEVER DIE https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ie_twisted.gif
                        1978 GS1000C X2
                        1978 GS1000E X2
                        1979 GS1000S
                        1979 gs1000
                        1983 gs400e

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Steve View Post
                          That works great, if you have a welder. Some of us are limited to credit cards and adjustable spanners.

                          .

                          Rock-paper-scissors

                          But you can get get a welder with that credit card


                          I'm slowly getting better but finding all kinds of uses for this. If it is something I want pretty I talke t oa pro. But to put together a tool like this works great.

                          There are cheap but effective; it really is a crappy welder but if you care about beauty. Just remember to p[ick up a grinder and flap disk to clean up the splattering and slag

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                            #14
                            Please somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the self-made threaded tool or socket trick for the bikes with larger diameter forks (i.e., GS750+)? With 650 ccs or less the wooden broom handle is the tool of choice? I seem to remember reading that in some thread here. Used the broom handle and it worked great, btw.

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                              #15
                              Thanks for all the advice!

                              I didn't mean to orphan this thread; I just got VERY busy! Thanks for all the great advice.
                              1979 GS 1000

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