Suspension is hard

[cowboyup3371]

So I finally had my second ride into work which makes this my fourth long ride on the bike since Tkent and I got it working two weeks ago. The highway I ride on into work is definitely showing its age and only had a very small section of its 22 miles that I travel resurfaced a month or two ago. While traveling over the bumps in the road, the bike responds very harshly. It's not throwing me off of the bike but its definitely a hard landing every time I go over one.

Some time back, Cdnoel told me I needed to replace the seals on the front forks. I intend to do that later this winter as the really nasty weather starts coming in but until then I just want to ride. Plus, I need to get some bills took care of before sinking much more into the bike. I also think I need to replace the rear shocks; why not sure but I think it's probably a good idea.

What I am asking though, is how do I know what the right kinds of shocks for the rear I should get? I'm not planning on doing any of the crazy twisty riding some folks do but I do want to have a solid yet comfortable ride to work. Is there specific brands I should look for? When I get them, what should I consider about how to "dial them in" correctly? What happens to the bike's driveability when I make it too soft? too hard?

I've also read about the Progressive springs for up front and I'll try to do those mods but again, is there anything about the overall functionality of the bike I should consider before buying anything?

Thanks guys.

I forgot to add that I'm about 190 and won't be doing much 2-up riding except for maybe having the kids on as a "incentive ride" so to speak long after I've had enough time on the bike first.

[resjudicata]

If the suspension feels that harsh then there is something wrong with it. For whatever reason it isn't soaking up the impact between you and the road.

One reason could be a lack of damping and the suspension is just bottoming out too soon. Or, damaged suspension like bent fork tubes and/or bent piston rods in the shocks.

For the forks this could be a lack of damping (no oil, no air if they have air, bad seals, very weak springs, or combination). My guess on the forks is the lack of oil due to bad seals and/or possible bent tubes. When you take the tubes apart after removing everything you should put the inner tube into the outer tube and moving them though there full motion make sure they slide easily and that there is no lateral play.

For the shocks, I'd just consider them toast and get a set of Progressive shocks and springs. I don't have personal experience with any others so I can't give other options. But, I got a set of Progressive replacement shocks for my '79 850 and in my mind they are worth every penny.

Chris

[Truth]

I would second what he said. When I first got my bike it was way to soft and bounced all over the road. To the point where it was really unsafe. I'm new and really didn't know any better until I got a buddy to ride mine around a bit. He wasn't gone too long before he came back.

I used MDI shocks in the back (They were cheap), but I plan on saving some dough for some progressives. The MDI's are worlds better than what I had, but like the reviews say... They are harsh. At the same time I did the front with new seals, oil, and progressive springs. Since I knew the rear would be on the stiff side I cut the spacers slightly long to compensate. It's a firm ride, hugs a corner pretty well, but there are some bumps that if I don't see them coming they put a hurtin on the kidneys.

There's no adjustment on the rear other than the spring pre-load. I probably should play with it some but haven't. The front is a bit trickier. The only way I know of (and I'm inexperienced) is to adjust pre-load with different length PVC tube spacers.

You'll also want to check how much air you have in the tires. Too much can make it ride like a rock. Also take a look at the DOT number. That will give you a year the tires were made. Any more than a few years, and it might be a good idea to change them. HTH

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks guys. Tires are brand spanking new so that won't be a worry there but I need to check the air again in the AM. I checked them tonight when I got home and found the back tire was down to 24 PSI which is weird since I just filled it up two weeks ago. I wouldn't think that a motorcycle tubed tire would lose air that quickly.

While out today, I stopped by my local shop and found out a set of rear Progressive shocks and springs will run me about $600 ($300 each). That's a little steep for me right now so it'll have to be a spring time project and I'll have to deal with it until it. I will try to take the front forks off in the next few weeks to look at them once I have the money for the dust seals.

[koolaid_kid]

That price is twice what Progressive wants:http://www.progressivesuspension.com...+75%2f120++(PR)

Shocks - 12-1202B ($203.52)
Springs - 03-1394B/C ($92.95) - They come in Black or Chrome, not sure which you have.
That comes to less than $300, and add a bit for shipping.
The fork spring kit 11-1115 is also $92.95, which will set you back around $400 for the entire suspension.

You can usually save a bit over that price by shopping around, even on eBay.

[tkent02]

Look on ebay, decent shocks come up from time to time.

[resjudicata]

Yeah, I paid $300 total for my rear shocks with springs installed from a local shop. Whoever quoted you $600 is an F&(king thief.

Don't forget that your tire pressures are not supposed to be the highest the tire will take. The factory recommended tire pressure for your bike should be on a sticker somewhere on the bike. Use that recommended pressure as a starting point. With modern tires my bike likes and rides better with pressures that are a couple pounds higher or lower from the factory recommended.

Chris

[dpep]

The following is pasted from BassCliff's welcome page. It was originally posted by Griffin a few years ago. It is still pretty much applicable though some of the brands are no longer available.

**********Quoted from Mr. Griffin**********

For suspension upgrades, the front end is pretty simple: Progressive brand springs and fresh 15W fork oil. (http://www.mawonline.com has pretty good prices on Progressive products.)

(If you need extra heavy spring rate for your forks (for bigger riders or heavy loads) try Sonic Fork Springs. There's an online tool for calculating the proper spring rate according to your bike, weight, riding style, etc.)

The rear end isn't so simple.

Most of these brands are available in 'eye to eye' and 'eye to clevis' configurations, in different lengths for twin shock GS models. The options are arranged in order of price, low to high.

1. $65-$90 Emgo/MDI: Found all over ebay, and at about every vendor on the internet. General consensus of users seems to be that they are ok quality, but very stiffly sprung. Essentially the bare minimum option from stock. (For example, see: http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/rear_shocks.htm)

2. $120 Redwing: Evidently no longer made, they are still available at www.loudfastugly.com (and omarsdtr.com). I've not been able to find anyone who's actually used them, but they appear to be of halfway decent quality.

3. $210-$230 Progressive 12 Series: Lots of information here and all over the web about them. Most people seem happy with them, several different spring weights available. Available at most online retailers. www.denniskirk.com is a vendor I have had great luck with over the years.

4. $218-$270 Hagon Type A: Seem very similar to Progressive 12 series as far as owner satisfaction, quality of construction, and price. Available in the USA at www.davequinnmotorcycles.com

5. $320-$400+ Ikon 76 Series: Generally pretty highly regarded, lots of options available. From what I've read on the internet, they do seem to be more highly regarded than Progressive. Can be found at http://www.ikonsuspensionusa.com/servlet/StoreFront

6. $419-$589 Works Performance Steel Tracker: Very highly regarded, lots of positive reviews around the internet of Works Performance in general. Customer service (including rebuilding any brand of shock) is very highly rated. More info at http://www.worksperformance.com/html/home.html

There are other options available that can be more expensive, including offerings from Works, Ikon, Ohlins. White Brothers, once a powerhouse in the motorcycle industry, has ceased operations.

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks Dpep. Once I again I forgot to go look back at that page. But even looking at it now I still am not sure of how they work.

Will there be any changes to driveability I will need to consider with the new shocks? Is adjusting them mostly out of trial and error?