Can anyone tell me how to remove my foot brake pedal?

[wirelessguy]

The manual seems to show a different brake than what gets install on the GS1100EZ. Most photos I see have a brake pedal which has some sort of hex set screw but I don't think mine does (or I haven't been looking hard enough).

Here's a photo of the brake pedal. Which runs under the foot rest and just has a rounded end which fits into the frame. (I'm not certain how the footrest is bolted in either but it looks like it would have to be from behind as well).



Here's view from underneath.


Could this screw release the entire brake arm from the frame or should I be looking from the other direction to see if there's a nut on the back of the pedal itself?

Thanks.

[Curly]

Remove the screw completely and the arm should slide off.

This is an awesome thread.

[Baatfam]

Remove the screw completely and the arm should slide off.

Yes, this is correct.

As far as removing the footpegs, if you ever need to, there are plastic plugs in the end of the bolt heads, (see picture).
Remove those and use an allen head wrench, they just unscrew from the frame.
Nothing on the back side.

[wirelessguy]

This is an awesome thread.

The only reason this is an awesome thread would be because YOU told me what needed to be done.

I did losen the screw but the pedal does take a bunch of 'working' to be removed. Since I was confident that I head the right screw loosened, I wasn't scared to grab out the screw driver and try to slowly wedge the pedal out against the frame.

Looks like my exhaust pipe is still not going to clear the foot rest though. I might be able to turn it upside down and flip the spring it's attached to. What would you know, thoe little black pieces ARE plastic covers. :-)

I removed them without too much damage but I don't have a hex key anywhere near that large.

Anyone have an idea what size the hex bolt is? Looks like I'm gonna have to run out to the hardware store on that one.

Thanks.

[Baatfam]

I did losen the screw but the pedal does take a bunch of 'working' to be removed. Since I was confident that I head the right screw loosened, I wasn't scared to grab out the screw driver and try to slowly wedge the pedal out against the frame.

You need to completely remove the bolt to release the arm from the pedal...as it rides in a groove on the brake lever shaft.
Just like on a shift lever, if you've ever done that.

Anyone have an idea what size the hex bolt is?

I don't know off hand, but I can check when I get home.

[Bert Patterson]

I’m just in awe that Bob took the picture of your bike and added the red arrows and re-posted it…………he is a technically-proficient dude.

[Curly]

Most likely 5 or 6mm. Do yourself a favor and go to sears. Buy this:

Ball end, and metric of course. You'll use them all the time. The cheaper sets are $10-15, they should be fine.

[Steve]

Most likely 5 or 6mm. ...

Would you believe that it's even more likely that they are 8mm?

.

[sschering]

according the the parts fiche it's a M8x25mm

the rear brake lever bits are listed with the center stand parts..

[Curly]

I dont think the size of the thread has anything to do with the size of wrench. Could be different with allen bolts over hex nuts.

[waterman]

Most likely 5 or 6mm. Do yourself a favor and go to sears. Buy this:

Ball end, and metric of course. You'll use them all the time. The cheaper sets are $10-15, they should be fine.

I bought a set of cheap T handled metric allens for $5 on sale from Harbor Freight that haven't let me done yet. My guess is 6 or 8mm for size.

[wirelessguy]

Confirmed. 8mm hex.

[bwringer]

I bought a set of cheap T handled metric allens for $5 on sale from Harbor Freight that haven't let me done yet. My guess is 6 or 8mm for size.

FYI, I'm a big, big fan of Harbor Freight, but their t-handle and L-handle allens will indeed let you down at the worst possible times in the worst possible ways, especially in the smaller sizes.

This is one place where it's well worth the few extra $$ for better quality (Craftsman -- not the cheapo Sears brand -- or Kobalt, Allen, etc.) -- they'll fit tighter, rip up the fasteners less, and they won't break or strip when the going gets rough.

I have had good luck with HF's allen/hex socket bits, though.

[Curly]

Confirmed. 8mm hex.

****. I owe Steve a beer.