The first thing to do is repeat the pattern your wheel originally had (easiest to follow and order spokes for) once all the spokes are in place, finger tighten all the nipples so that the spoke just does start to flush with the top of the nipple. Once you have all the spokes even, then and only then are you ready to start trueing the wheel.
Things you will need: Patience, small open end wrench, new spokes and nipples, time, spare swing arm or other means for trueing oh and did I mention patience?
Things you dont need:special spoke wrench, tons of money for mechanic, space, experience.
Once you get the spokes and wheel close, place the wheel on an axle or a decent substitute. Anything that fits in the bearing hole and allows to wheel to roll freely. Place the wheel on the swingarm or other stand and mark the first nipple as a starting point. Start tightening each nipple 1/2 to 1 full turn all the way around one full rotation of the wheel. Check to see if the heel free rolls to the "heavy" side of the wheel. If it does, and it will a few times, adjust (tighten) nipple opposite of the bottom side by 1/4 to 1/2 turns of the nipple until balanced. It takes time and patience. If you find youre all muttered up, simply stop, loosen the spokes back the starting position of flush with the nipple's top and start over. This is one of the few skills that is 100% about feel. There is no real shortcut by saying torque it to this or that. Trueing is more and art. It helps to take a couple clear pictures of how the pattern was so you can look at it while youre relacing the new spokes. And by recreating the OE pattern, you wont need to guess at the spoke length. Hope that helps and that you decide to give it try.
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