Any way to change rear brakes without removing the wheel?

[Mike]

I'd really rather not have to take the wheel off to get new shoes on, so I'm hoping there's another way. The manual says that you have to though, so I'm thinking I might be SOL.

[SVSooke]

You are correct.

[Steve]

It's not all that bad removing a rear wheel.

Hardest part will probably be aligning the sprockets when you put it back on.

.

[Nessism]

I don't think you have to remove the rear wheel. Just pull the caliper off, press the pistons backwards, install new pads, and reinstall caliper. Am I missing something here?

EDIT: My bad, this bike has a drum brake. Never mind...

[Mike]

Dang it

Looks like I'll have something to do tonight then. Hopefully no bolts snap in two

[7981GS]

I'd really rather not have to take the wheel off to get new shoes on, so I'm hoping there's another way. The manual says that you have to though, so I'm thinking I might be SOL.

GS450L and rear DRUM brakes, just in case no one was paying attention.

Daniel

[mike_of_bbg]

It shouldn't be bad. My brake rod was pretty rusty at the end, so I decided to remove the pinch bolt and brake cam lever instead. The bolt that holds the torque arm might be a pain, douse it with PB Blaster and if all else fails you can probably replace the shoes with it still attached. Unbolt the shock tops so the axle can clear the exhaust, then the axle is all that you need.

Pay attention to the spacer bits and make sure they all go back in the right way.

But - while you're in there - do you know when the wheel bearings were last replaced?

[Mike]

It shouldn't be bad. My brake rod was pretty rusty at the end, so I decided to remove the pinch bolt and brake cam lever instead. The bolt that holds the torque arm might be a pain, douse it with PB Blaster and if all else fails you can probably replace the shoes with it still attached. Unbolt the shock tops so the axle can clear the exhaust, then the axle is all that you need.

Pay attention to the spacer bits and make sure they all go back in the right way.

But - while you're in there - do you know when the wheel bearings were last replaced?

No clue. Guy I bought it from bought it from someone else, so he didn't know too much. It's only got 7200 on the clock, so I'm guessing around never-ish.

I've sprayed some ATF/Acetone mix liberally on all the bolts in the area over the last couple days hoping to loosen them up in preparation.

[mike_of_bbg]

Well it's up to you but, if I have no clue when the wheel bearings had been replaced, I'm replacing them while I'm in there. Verify with the parts fiche but I think you'd use 1x6203, 1x6303 for the wheel, and 1x6205 for the sprocket carrier.

[Nessism]

Wheel bearings are most likely okay, but not the tire if it's the original. Check tire date code to determine age. Basscliff's site has info on how to read the date codes.

[Mike]

Wheel bearings are most likely okay, but not the tire if it's the original. Check tire date code to determine age. Basscliff's site has info on how to read the date codes.

I'll check the dates tonight, but I know they aren't original. PO did know that they were put on last year.

[mike_of_bbg]

Well I'd at least check the bearings while you have the wheel off. If they feel anything other than buttery smooth, replace 'em. Wheel bearings are cheap.

[Nessism]

Well I'd at least check the bearings while you have the wheel off. If they feel anything other than buttery smooth, replace 'em. Wheel bearings are cheap.

Make that...Chinese wheel bearings are cheap. If you get US or Japanese bearings they cost a good deal more. In either case it's best to check each time the wheel is off the bike.

[Mike]

Well I'd at least check the bearings while you have the wheel off. If they feel anything other than buttery smooth, replace 'em. Wheel bearings are cheap.

I think the ATF/acetone worked wonders because everything came up VERY easily.

Checked the bearings and they felt brand new, so I'm good to go there.