Head bearing adjustment

[Guest]

Hey fellas, not sure if I've got this in the right category.

I'm searched, checked my Clymer book, and checked the factory manual, but can't see to find instructions for adjusting the head bearing without removing the wheel and triple tree etc. Is it even possible? I'm going out to check again for play this afternoon by supporting the front end off the ground and testing by hand, but if I find any, can I tighten up on the spot?

I know from adjusting bicycle head bearings, not too loose or too tight, just not sure what to do with all the extra hardware in the way. Also curious what tools you guys use (aside from the suzuki one) to turn the notched ring?

Edit: Also, anyone have the part numbers for the bearing and races? I'm having a bear of a time telling what's what from the Bikebandit fiche!

[posplayr]

1. You need to loosen the upper (top) triple only (stanchion bolts and if you have one on the triple at the steering nut)
2. Use a punch (or screwdriver to tap) tighten the notched nut.
3. You are looking for some slight drag (like 1 lbs at the handle bar) and no notching
4. Use the hammer and piece of wood to tap down the top triple a little.
5. Or just Re tighten the top nut.
6. re toque the top triple last.

If it was not obvious, the steps above are intended to loosen the top triple so it can slide down as you close the gap between the upper and lower triple when tightening the bearings. I guess you could allow the lower to slide by loosening it, I have always just done the top.

[bwringer]

Also, if you replace the bearings, don't install the same El Crappo Notch-O-Matic OEM bearings -- install tapered bearings.

All Balls is a common brand, and they're available through Dennis Kirk, BikeBandit, and many others.

[Dogma]

Also, if you replace the bearings, don't install the same El Crappo Notch-O-Matic OEM bearings -- install tapered bearings.

All Balls is a common brand, and they're available through Dennis Kirk, BikeBandit, and many others.

Z1 is selling All Balls very inexpensively. About $10 for a set of wheel bearings, dunno about steering bearings.

[Roostabunny]

Also, if you replace the bearings, don't install the same El Crappo Notch-O-Matic OEM bearings -- install tapered bearings.

All Balls is a common brand, and they're available through Dennis Kirk, BikeBandit, and many others.

OK, Brian, sounds good - I found this, which looks right - http://www.bikebandit.com/all-balls-...=3651&t=1&td=1

I see what look like races in that kit, but the description says "bearings and seals". Are they including the races in the word "bearings"? Cause if so, this looks like a pretty good deal.

I've read a couple of threads - any advice on the best non-welder method of getting the old races out? Patience and accuracy with jerry-rigged tools, I can manage, a welder, not as much. Or, I can try to sweet talk one of those Park rocket things out of my local bicycle shop for a few hours.

[Roostabunny]

Z1 is selling All Balls very inexpensively. About $10 for a set of wheel bearings, dunno about steering bearings.

Is that for one wheel? I can't tell here from this product page, looks like 3 x bearings and 2 x seals, a stock photo, I guess - http://www.bikebandit.com/all-balls-...=3651&t=1&td=1

I found Bwringer recommending these guys on another thread http://www.skatebearings.com/etoad/i...atId=8&catId=8

And that place is coming up to just under $12 + shipping for front and rear, assuming I'm good with 2 each of the sealed 6302-RS in the front and 6303-RS in the rear. I looked at the sealed out of habit, since (just as when I bicycled all the time) I ride in the rain once in a while.

[Steve]

... - any advice on the best non-welder method of getting the old races out? Patience and accuracy with jerry-rigged tools, I can manage, a welder, not as much. Or, I can try to sweet talk one of those Park rocket things out of my local bicycle shop for a few hours.

Best method I have found to remove the steering races is a Dremel tool with a large cut-off wheel. Cut into the race twice, about 1/4" apart. If you happen to slip past the race and nick the frame, it's not a problem. When you are done with the cutting, the race will be weak enough to use a screwdriver or chisel to tap out the little piece, the rest of the race will fall right out.

Here is what it will look like:


This is why I thought the bearings might need to be changed:


Good luck with your project.

.

[posplayr]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=120514&highlight=bearing+removal+tool

[Dogma]

Is that for one wheel? I can't tell here from this product page, looks like 3 x bearings and 2 x seals, a stock photo, I guess - http://www.bikebandit.com/all-balls-...=3651&t=1&td=1
...

That is comparable to what I've bought from Z1.

Yet another bearing knockout tool.

[hikermikem]

Also, if you replace the bearings, don't install the same El Crappo Notch-O-Matic OEM bearings -- install tapered bearings.

All Balls is a common brand, and they're available through Dennis Kirk, BikeBandit, and many others.

Another alternative to buying on-line & paying for shipping:

I ordered a set of All Balls steering stem bearings for my 1100E from the Honda shop that's close to me... go on their web site & get the part number you need & then look for a distributor close to you.

[bwringer]

Another alternative to buying on-line & paying for shipping:

I ordered a set of All Balls steering stem bearings for my 1100E from the Honda shop that's close to me... go on their web site & get the part number you need & then look for a distributor close to you.

Good point -- might as well support local business when you can. Any powersports dealer should be able to get All Balls stuff.

And I'd say if you can't go local, Z1 Enterprises is very deserving of our business.