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special fork tool
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Don't you need something to hold the damper rod when it comes to torquing down the fork bolt???1979 GS850G
2004 SV650N track bike
2005 TT-R125 pit bike
LRRS #246 / Northeast Cycles / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Hindle Exhaust / Central Mass Powersport
http://s327.photobucket.com/albums/k443/tas850g/
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Lunchbox88
I used a this sketch thing that I pieced together with 1/2" extensions, and random bolt that I threaded a 19mm lug nut onto. Did the job nicely.
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TheCafeKid
IF the forks have never been apart (which amazingly I've found to be pretty common) the factory assembly thread lock is mighty mighty strong (whatever yellow is in the threadlock world) I broke an air ratchet once trying to remove one of them, after stripping the hex and using a torx drive (work great on stripped Allen heads btw) Darn thing would just not break loose. Had to heat it with a torch. Finally got it.
Then some I've done (like FoxyBlankworthy's) they had to have been apart before because I didn't even need the special tool and they came right out.
Anymore I use medium duty thread locker. This new stuff I've been using MXLoc (from harbor freight) is burgundy in colour for their medium duty and blue is semi heavy duty with green and red being the heavy end. I use the burgundy.
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before you go making or buying stuff this trick has work 9 out of 10 times for me. remove the fork from the bike. keep the fork spring in compression (don't remove the cap yet, the pressure helps hold the damper rod in place.) take a propane torch heat the allen head up a bit. then zap it a few times with a impact wrench should come right out.
don't forget to bleed any air pressure first from the fork i once made that messy mistake.78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
82 Kat 1000 Project
05 CRF450x
10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike
P.S I don't check PM to often, email me if you need me.
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landshark
I just welded a bolt onto the end of a piece of steel rod i found in shed.
Cost nothing and i still have it.
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1_v8_merc
I also had no such problems.
My forks had the stock fluid in them from 1982, sludge and crap in the threads.
I just used an Allen key, and right where the 90 degree bend is, I slipped a socket extension over it to use as a breaker bar.
They put up some fight, but they cracked loose.
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Billy Ricks
Originally posted by 1_v8_merc View PostI also had no such problems.
My forks had the stock fluid in them from 1982, sludge and crap in the threads.
I just used an Allen key, and right where the 90 degree bend is, I slipped a socket extension over it to use as a breaker bar.
They put up some fight, but they cracked loose.
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jhicok
this thread was very helpful!! i used the piece of 1/2 rod with 2 3/4" nuts locked together and it worked perfectly.
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Stripped the forks on the 750 today to fit new seals. I spent 30 seconds looking for my usual tool (a broom) so used a rake handle instead.
No need for an impact wrench nor air gun - that would have taken another minute to set up. Just insert the allen key and give it a sharp tap with a hammer.79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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I just started to take my forks apart today and ended up making a "special tool" today with a threaded rod and two nuts as suggested above after trying with the 8 mm hex socket on the outside. The 8mm bolt was starting to distort and I didn't want to completely strip it. I have a call into my neighbor to see if he can weld the nuts onto the threaded rod as no matter how hard I tighten them together they still pop loose. I have also heated the bolt for ~5 min with mapp gas. Is the 8mm socket bolt threaded into the piece that I'm also trying to loosen with the "special tool"? The exploded diagram on the fiche is not too clear.82 GS1100E
five asses because it's far superior to having just four!
Yes, I watched too much South Park!
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The special tool made from threaded rod ended up twisting like a pretzel so much for that idea.
I then borrowed a 2' 3/8 drive extension from my neighbor and used a reversed spark plug socked and it came off with little effort.82 GS1100E
five asses because it's far superior to having just four!
Yes, I watched too much South Park!
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Jason the terminator
Now this isn't as high tech as the things other members have done. I used a broom stick. It won't strip the damper rod or scratch anything up. If you chew the end up just cut it off and tap it back inside the rod. Works like a charm and everyone all ready has one laying around.
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Yes its the stop the spinning effect i was looking to eradicate. So by general consensus i take it the 78 1000s are the 19MM sort.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13953
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
550 doesn't have anything you can get a nut into... have to use a broom handle on them1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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