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    Banjo Bolt Pressure Switches

    The front brake switch on my bike is definitely not impressive in it's construction. Simple, yet flimsy.

    Who has converted to one of these? Any issues encountered?


    #2
    Originally posted by wisgolfer59 View Post
    The front brake switch on my bike is definitely not impressive in it's construction. Simple, yet flimsy.

    Who has converted to one of these? Any issues encountered?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAKE...item415a1c4ce5
    I have used these on a couple bikes, including my '83 GS1100. They work perfectly and have more than enough wire length and correct connectors to plug into the existing harness. The only (small) issues are that the wires make it harder for the rubber cover to fit over the bolt and the wires have to twist quite a few times if you need to remove the banjo bolt which could lead to a broken wire if you're not careful. These a re very small issues and, in my opinion, don't even come close to overriding the benefits of this setup.

    Thanks,
    Joe
    IBA# 24077
    '15 BMW R1200GS Adventure
    '07 Triumph Tiger 1050 ABS
    '08 Yamaha WR250R

    "Krusty's inner circle is a completely unorganized group of grumpy individuals uninterested in niceties like factual information. Our main purpose, in an unorganized fashion, is to do little more than engage in anecdotal stories and idle chit-chat while providing little or no actual useful information. And, of course, ride a lot and have tons of fun.....in a Krusty manner."

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      #3
      Z1 carries them.I replaced the oem switch on my gs and have never had any more trouble.

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for the input.

        For the front, I was thinking of putting the switch down at the splitter instead of up on the master cylinder. Easier to tuck the wires out of the way.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by wisgolfer59 View Post
          Thanks for the input.

          For the front, I was thinking of putting the switch down at the splitter instead of up on the master cylinder. Easier to tuck the wires out of the way.
          Good idea.
          sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

          Comment


            #6
            I put one under, at the junction on my 850 several years ago Works great

            Comment


              #7
              I put mine on the master on my 850. Works perfectly, much better than that chintzy mechanical thing.

              Comment


                #8
                Put one on at the MC on mine a few years ago. Never had to touch it since then...
                David
                1998 Suzuki Bandit
                1978 GS750 gone but not forgotten
                1978 GS1000 - gone
                1981 GS850 - gone

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks to all. Pretty much unanimous.

                  Given (a) how important it is that the brake lights work EVERY time, (b) how little confidence I have in that OE switch and (c) how inexpensive the banjo bolt pressure switch is, I'm going to put one in. Probably will use one in the rear too.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by portdave View Post
                    Put one on at the MC on mine a few years ago. Never had to touch it since then...
                    I was having a great run with my banjo bolt pressure switches both front and back but now they appear not to operate without significant brake pressure.

                    With the HEL steel lines I am running I don't require much pressure to achieve braking effect.

                    Is there any way I can have the brake light activate with minimal pressure?

                    It often appears to riders following that the brake light is not working
                    Johno

                    current rides 1981 GS1000G and 2005 GSX1400
                    1977 Kawasaki KZ400 D4

                    previous bikes 1978 GS1000HC
                    1977 GS400
                    1974 Montesa 250
                    1960s Kawasaki 175

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Johno View Post
                      I was having a great run with my banjo bolt pressure switches both front and back but now they appear not to operate without significant brake pressure.

                      With the HEL steel lines I am running I don't require much pressure to achieve braking effect.

                      Is there any way I can have the brake light activate with minimal pressure?

                      It often appears to riders following that the brake light is not working
                      I noted that on one bike that I had with a pressure switch. Not sure if they come in different ratings or not, but I did not like the fact that you actually had to be ON THE BRAKES before the light came on. I prefer to have the mechanical switch (chintzy or not) so that it will come on with the slightest movement of the lever, even before the brakes are applied.

                      .
                      sigpic
                      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                      Family Portrait
                      Siblings and Spouses
                      Mom's first ride
                      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Does anyone have any advice on how I can increase the sensitivity of the pressure switch?
                        Johno

                        current rides 1981 GS1000G and 2005 GSX1400
                        1977 Kawasaki KZ400 D4

                        previous bikes 1978 GS1000HC
                        1977 GS400
                        1974 Montesa 250
                        1960s Kawasaki 175

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Trying to figure out why the pressure switch is better than the original mechanical motion switch. You can't adjust it. It's not that cheap. If it fails, you need to break into the hydraulics. It's hard to torque properly. It puts delicate wires out exposed where they are more likely to be hit and damaged. And this is better why?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Because the people that are interested in doing it are tired of playing with their 30-year-old, corroded parts that they can replace for $10, and choose to instead put out about $20(?) or so for a hydraulic switch with all those lovely "features".

                            .
                            sigpic
                            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                            Family Portrait
                            Siblings and Spouses
                            Mom's first ride
                            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Steve View Post
                              Because the people that are interested in doing it are tired of playing with their 30-year-old, corroded parts that they can replace for $10, and choose to instead put out about $20(?) or so for a hydraulic switch with all those lovely "features".

                              .
                              LOL!

                              The one advantage I can see is if your controls are not stock Suzuki or somehow damaged so that it won't accept the stock mechanical switch.

                              Comment

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