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    #16
    Originally posted by Steve View Post
    I noted that on one bike that I had with a pressure switch. Not sure if they come in different ratings or not, but I did not like the fact that you actually had to be ON THE BRAKES before the light came on. I prefer to have the mechanical switch (chintzy or not) so that it will come on with the slightest movement of the lever, even before the brakes are applied.

    .
    I was the one who started this thread almost 2 years ago, so I'll put in my two cents....

    I ended up with just the one banjo bolt switch at the front splitter. It has worked fine so far, and triggers with the slightest pressure increase.

    The banjo bolt switch does have the disadvantage of requiring more clearance, so for the rear, I kept the mechanical switch because of the way the rear m/c is mounted.

    I also found the threading on the banjo bolt switches to be somewhat variable, mostly too large. A banjo bolt would thread right in, but the switch wouldn't go in more than a couple threads. Had to return a couple of them for that reason.

    I've got all the parts to do the dual-piston front brake mod, including a Kawa master cylinder. If/when I do that, I'll also utilize the mech switch in there, maybe in parallel to the banjo bolt switch. The Kawasaki switch is a self-contained unit - looks to be more robust than our Suzi switches.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Steve View Post
      Because the people that are interested in doing it are tired of playing with their 30-year-old, corroded parts that they can replace for $10, and choose to instead put out about $20(?) or so for a hydraulic switch with all those lovely "features".

      .
      I hate the fiddly OEM switches.All mine are being replaced by these http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Motorcycle-Hy...vxp=mtr&_uhb=1 .Good bye having to worry every time I take the brake lever off or other MC stuff.Thanks to this thread for reminding me I want to put a front MC kit and these on to the 85 750.

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        #18
        Originally posted by 850GT_Rider View Post
        I was the one who started this thread almost 2 years ago, so I'll put in my two cents....

        I ended up with just the one banjo bolt switch at the front splitter. It has worked fine so far, and triggers with the slightest pressure increase.

        The banjo bolt switch does have the disadvantage of requiring more clearance, so for the rear, I kept the mechanical switch because of the way the rear m/c is mounted.

        I also found the threading on the banjo bolt switches to be somewhat variable, mostly too large. A banjo bolt would thread right in, but the switch wouldn't go in more than a couple threads. Had to return a couple of them for that reason.

        I've got all the parts to do the dual-piston front brake mod, including a Kawa master cylinder. If/when I do that, I'll also utilize the mech switch in there, maybe in parallel to the banjo bolt switch. The Kawasaki switch is a self-contained unit - looks to be more robust than our Suzi switches.
        sounds like either you ordered the wrong pitch thread, OR they sent you the wrong ones.
        1978 GS1085.

        Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

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          #19
          Originally posted by SVSooke View Post
          I hate the fiddly OEM switches.All mine are being replaced by these http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Motorcycle-Hy...vxp=mtr&_uhb=1 .Good bye having to worry every time I take the brake lever off or other MC stuff.Thanks to this thread for reminding me I want to put a front MC kit and these on to the 85 750.
          Just how often do you remove the brake lever?

          After the first go-around when you are sorting everything out, you should only have to flush the brake fluid ("other MC stuff") every couple of years (which does not require removing the lever) and you should only have to remove the brake lever when you drop the bike on that side and break it.


          In my feeble mind, that is much like the arguement that I see so often for wanting to install pods on the carbs: "it's so much easier to remove the carbs". True, but here again, clean the carbs properly, you won't have to remove them for several years. I don't think that enduring all the aggravation of re-jetting for pods will offset the minor aggravation of removing the carbs ONCE every several years. But that's a topic for another thread, and it's my personal opinion (to which you are certainly entitled ).

          .
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            #20
            Originally posted by 850GT_Rider View Post
            Thanks for the input.

            For the front, I was thinking of putting the switch down at the splitter instead of up on the master cylinder. Easier to tuck the wires out of the way.
            That's a great idea! Wish I had thought of that but oh well. It's behind the windshield enough, and I bet a 90 degree spark plug boot would fit.

            I just added this to my bike mainly because the OE finally broke, and Z1 had a pressure switch for less. No brainer.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Steve View Post
              Just how often do you remove the brake lever?

              After the first go-around when you are sorting everything out, you should only have to flush the brake fluid ("other MC stuff") every couple of years (which does not require removing the lever) and you should only have to remove the brake lever when you drop the bike on that side and break it.


              In my feeble mind, that is much like the arguement that I see so often for wanting to install pods on the carbs: "it's so much easier to remove the carbs". True, but here again, clean the carbs properly, you won't have to remove them for several years. I don't think that enduring all the aggravation of re-jetting for pods will offset the minor aggravation of removing the carbs ONCE every several years. But that's a topic for another thread, and it's my personal opinion (to which you are certainly entitled ).

              .
              Call it a personal thing,it seems like every 2nd time I do take off the lever I forget the switch thing is there. Squashed more of the stupid things than I care to admitYeah I should remember it's there but it I doubt that will happen.I'd just rather do a pressure switch and be done with it.The OEM switch does it's job but I just think the pressure is the better way to go.

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                #22
                Originally posted by Agemax View Post
                sounds like either you ordered the wrong pitch thread, OR they sent you the wrong ones.
                That's what I thought too. But after the third one didn't fit, from a different source, I had the machinist at work measure it. Right thread pitch but at the top end of the diameter tolerance -at least for that one. None of those, though were from Z1.

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                  #23
                  i have one installed on my 87 GS450 its for a nissan brake set up works fine for me...

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