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    Front Brake adjustment.

    Yesterday I replaced the front brake line, on my 77 gs750, with a braided stainless one, and then bled them. The front brake seems to be kind of stiff, there's not much play with the lever. You can't gradually pull the lever back, it only moves about half an inche.
    Any suggestions or adjustments ? Or does anyone know the reason for this?

    #2
    Sounds about right. That's how the front brake should feel. Does the front wheel roll as it should or are the brakes binding?
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      Mine are having the opposite problem. I just flushed the old dot3(and what ever else accumulated over 15 years) and filled 'er up with dot4 and bled them properly, I even had my automotive repair teacher verify that I did it right, and for some reason the front feels really soft. Is this a characteristic of dot4 or may there be another issue?

      Sorry for the side topic lens..... :P

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        #4
        front brake adjustment,

        Leave brake lines attached to front calipers.
        Squeeze brake handle and hold,put socket on bleeder valve and open,now release brake handle slowly,then close bleeder valve,repeat this for each side till you have fluid flowing from both sides,keeping master cylinder full of dot 3 or 4 fluid.If you have blockage try reversing hose from top to bottom just till you clear the rust and air out.You will flip the lines upright once the blockage is cleared,this could take a couple days to work through just be patient.
        Remove two bolts on each side of both calipers.
        Use some rope to keep weight off brake lines and suspend calipers.
        Once pistons start moving use channelocks to hold one back till the other catches up,so you remove both pistons with your fingers.Remove O ring inside caliper body.Use a torch to heat inside of caliper till all the varnish turns to powder.Carefully clean out and smear new brake fluid in caliper.Replace o ring,slide piston back in with boot,work it evenly and use thumbs to press piston in at comfortable distance.
        Replace bolts and install calipers over brake pads.
        Use 2 feet of 1/4 inch clear tubing,continue bleeding air and rust out of brake lines as above until fluid runs clear and no air bubbles.
        Use hose to rinse off brake fluid on discs.
        The same technique will work for rear brake as well.
        Take care, Tom Brennan

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by JCSkokos View Post
          Mine are having the opposite problem. I just flushed the old dot3(and what ever else accumulated over 15 years) and filled 'er up with dot4 and bled them properly, I even had my automotive repair teacher verify that I did it right, and for some reason the front feels really soft. Is this a characteristic of dot4 or may there be another issue?

          Sorry for the side topic lens..... :P
          Dot 3 and 4 are almost identical other than 4 has a higher boiling point.

          As for your brakes, you should perform a full system tear down and clean out. Change the brake lines if they are the originals. No shortcuts.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment

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