Spring question ?

[bccap]

Which end faces down. The tightly coiled end or the loosely coiled ?

[mike_of_bbg]

I've read it all three ways:

1. Tight ends down
2. Loose ends down
3. Doesn't matter, as long as you're consistent between the two

I'd suggest that 3 is probably right, but I installed mine tight winds down at the suggestion they make less noise that way. How does the spring appear on the fiche?

[bccap]

On the fiche it appears there are no tight ends. At least you didn't tell me the spring was shot. I will do it as you say. Tight end down.

[RichDesmond]

Doesn't matter in the least.

[CruisinFj60]

Its a progressive wound spring, as long as its the same on both sides it will be just fine. Heck may not even mater if they weren't the same but it makes sense to make them the same.

[koolaid_kid]

It really does not matter. The windings that are further apart will always compress first, and their movement is limited to along the length of the shock. However, if you do one of each expect tol get razzed by bike riders that know what to look for. I always put the closer windings on the top, btw.

[Agemax]

i would fit it with the tighter coils up the top. have you bought a new stronger spring, if so where from?

[trippivot]

as with any progressive spring.

the rule to remember is that the (tighter) progressive windings are placed at the stationary end. There is always movement anywhere there is spring. the wide windings go where the movement is initiated.

so for convential forks the tight windings are up top. for valve springs they are against the head.

[Steve]

The windings that are further apart will always compress first, ...

Really?

I thought that the tight ones compressed first.

.

[Agemax]

your right steve,
A Progressive spring is not the same as a Dual-Rate Spring. A progressive-wound spring is similar to a dual-rate in that it has an initial and final rate. The drawback of a progressive spring is that the crossover point is not adjustable. How the spring is wound determines the characteristics of the spring. This type of spring is wound with a varying pitch, as opposed to a constant pitch used in linear rate springs. One end has greater distance between the coils than at the other end of the spring. As the coils compress the coils closest to each other touch, (become coil-bound), which effectively reduces the number of active coils. As the number of active coils reduce the spring rate rises or becomes stiffer. Depending on shaft travel of a particular shock, an inappropriate progressive spring can actually cross over the initial rate in pre-load, or not attain the final rate at all. Progressive-wound springs can be a compromise if they are not designed for the specific application

[bccap]

Agemax, I fitted it with the tight coils up, and no I didn't use new springs. Just 15 wt. fork oil. However I think 20 might have been better. I did see Progressive springs for sale $92 on this site

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/?gclid=CKe7-5j1taoCFQgbQgodp1-D6g

[Agemax]

have you taken it for a ride yet to see any difference?

[bccap]

Yes I have, and there is a huge difference. But bear in mind. There wasn't much oil left in the fork, and what was there was 28 year old sludge. But even with my weight I am happy. Put 11 lb.'s of air in, and may bump that up. And I think 20 wt. would have stiffened them a bit more. Refer to my other thread { 20 wt. Fork oil ? }

[Agemax]

well if you are happy now, why change it again?

[Steve]

Yes I have, and there is a huge difference. But bear in mind. There wasn't much oil left in the fork, and what was there was 28 year old sludge. But even with my weight I am happy. Put 11 lb.'s of air in, and may bump that up. And I think 20 wt. would have stiffened them a bit more. Refer to my other thread { 20 wt. Fork oil ? }

Just remember that 20w oil does not hold up the bike or keep the suspension from bottoming.

It only slows down the response to keep it from bottoming as quickly.

I read some tech articles on suspension from a race mechanic, and he suggested using the lightest weight oil that would do the job of damping. Yeah, different bikes, different spring rates, different riders, different tracks all required their own settings for oil level and viscosity, but his theory was to use proper springs to hold the bike up and light oil to keep them damped.

.