New tires, alignment / brake issues

[tkent02]

Here's another idea, maybe the nut is rusted solid, so the shop bufoon took off the fork caps and changed the tire with the axle still stuck in the wheel. Whatever the reason, that shop sucks.

[scott]

Here's another idea, maybe the nut is rusted solid, so the shop bufoon took off the fork caps and changed the tire with the axle still stuck in the wheel. Whatever the reason, that shop sucks.

I wondered if that was possible - I guess I'll try some PB Blaster on there.

[bccap]

I think it's that missing fork pinch bolt on the right side that is causing this. Also, the pinch bolt that is there is loose so the fork can move. If I push the fork to the outside, the fender would be further from the tire and hopefully would push the disk away from the brake caliper. It sounds like I still need to remove the axle bolt to re-adjust the speedometer mechanism though.

That's what happened with mine. My disk was rubbing as well. But the pinch bolt won't pull the fork together. Its the fender brace that must be slackened right off. You don't need to take the fender off just make sure the nuts are really loose. So loose, the fender just rattles around. I say this because they are a pain in the ass to put in unless the wheel is off. And make sure the fender bolts are the last thing you tighten on reassembly. As for the axle nut. Mine was pretty tight and I also was working alone. I finally decided to sacrifice a screwdriver. I put the screwdriver in and stuck a board across the fork tube. So the screwdriver came up against it. Then I could concentrate on the nut. I was sure the screwdriver would break or bend, but it didn't.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

It seems that the shop put those bolts on with an air impact wrench, over torquing them and breaking one. Silly, silly bike shop mechanics.

Yes, you should be able to put a screwdriver through the hole on the other side of the axle so that you can use a ratchet to remove the axle bolt. It shouldn't be that difficult.

I'm not sure if I would take it back to that shop to make them fix it. Do you think they would do any better the second time?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[scott]

Okay - I got the axle nut off finally! I couldn't find a breaker bar but I got a 17mm impact socket (whatever that is) for my 1/2" drive ratchet and that worked better than my 3/8" ratchet. It still took a lot of effort but it's off.

So here's where I am: I loosened the 2 fender bolts, removed the axle nut and loosened the 3 fork pinch nuts (1 is missing). I tried shaking the wheel - it didn't move a whole lot.

I rotated the speedometer mechanism lower. It doesn't want to stay completely straight - it returns up some. What holds it in place? Should I hold it straight and then try to tighten the axle bolt? Or is "pretty straight" good enough?

I can turn the wheel much more easily with all the nuts/bolts loose. There is some resistance but it's not significant - I'd say it's similar to the slight resistance I have on the rear wheel.

With things loosened, it seems like the brake disc is more or less centered in the calipers although it's hard to tell. It may be slightly towards the inside part of the caliper (on the right if sitting on the bike). I tried several times to get a clear picture of it's position but they didn't come out - there's not a lot of room to fit a camera in there.

Is there something else I should inspect? Should I continue disassembling (taking out the axle, etc.)? Or do I start fastening things back up to see if things stay aligned properly?

I'm not sure if I would take it back to that shop to make them fix it. Do you think they would do any better the second time?

Right - I think I'm better off getting it sorted out myself first. At least then I'll know how it should be.

[bccap]

Continue taking the wheel off, but note the position of the bushings. Lay them out on the floor in the correct order. From the outside right, the bushing in the fork { looks like a short piece of pipe } Inside the fork { looks like a piece of pipe with a large flange } The flange faces the bearing. Left side the speedo mechanism, then the bushing with the small flange. The flange goes from the inside of the fork through. Now that you have it disassembled pull the speedo out of where it sits against the bearing. You will see 2 tabs on the speedo and 2 slots on the wheel for them to fit in. Rotate the wheel a little to get the tabs and the slots to line up and point straight out through the wire guide. I don't think this is going to give you a speedo though as I strongly suspect the idiot broke your cable. Use your new nut on reassembly, but each post should have 2 washers, 1 circular and 1 lock. Check all nuts have this. Do up the nuts hand tight, once you have the axle and bushings installed spin on the axle nut but with visible space between it and the bushing. I am assuming those fender brace bolts have been slacked right off. Now shake things up a bit. Get on the bike and pump the forks a few times. Then spin the wheel and if the GS Gods are on your side it should spin freely. Then tighten everything up, fender last. I recommend using a torque wrench as you don't want brake those fork nut studs. Check bikecliffs website for the correct tension. AND MOST IMPORTANTLY REPORT BACK ! I WANT TO HEAR EVERYTHING YOU CALL THAT !@@#$$%$%ING IDIOT.

[bonanzadave]

You will see 2 tabs on the speedo and 2 slots on the wheel for them to fit in. Rotate the wheel a little to get the tabs and the slots to line up and point straight out through the wire guide.

It is possible that F-Stick didnt do this. If the 2 speedo tabs aren't lined up with the slots this is what could be pushing your wheel to the right.

[bccap]

It is possible that F-Stick didnt do this. If the 2 speedo tabs aren't lined up with the slots this is what could be pushing your wheel to the right.

You're going to have to explain that to me. How did F-stick change the tire without reinstalling the wheel, which would entail setting the speedo tabs. Not to mention leaving the fork nuts so loose, one fell off on the ride home. This could have caused serious injury !

[bonanzadave]

You're going to have to explain that to me. How did F-stick change the tire without reinstalling the wheel, which would entail setting the speedo tabs. Not to mention leaving the fork nuts so loose, one fell off on the ride home. This could have caused serious injury !

What I meant to say was when F-Stick put the wheel back on he may not have got the speedo tabs lined up in the notches. And yes, broke an axle cap stud.

Please print this thread and show it to the service manager. Have a camera at the ready cause we want to see the look on his face......

[scott]

Continue taking the wheel off, but note the position of the bushings. Lay them out on the floor in the correct order. From the outside right, the bushing in the fork { looks like a short piece of pipe } Inside the fork { looks like a piece of pipe with a large flange } The flange faces the bearing. Left side the speedo mechanism, then the bushing with the small flange. The flange goes from the inside of the fork through. Now that you have it disassembled pull the speedo out of where it sits against the bearing. You will see 2 tabs on the speedo and 2 slots on the wheel for them to fit in.

Okay I got it apart for the most part. Here are the pieces - axle nut, washer, bushing/spacer, speedometer mechanism, bushing/spacer, axle. The 2 bushing/spacer pieces seem to be the same size.


On the right side, the part with the flange is still on the wheel (held on by a black cover):


On the left side, I think the bushing with the small flange is "behind" the disc which I didn't remove. It seems to match up with the fiche though. Here is the speedometer mechanism "port":

Rotate the wheel a little to get the tabs and the slots to line up and point straight out through the wire guide. I don't think this is going to give you a speedo though as I strongly suspect the idiot broke your cable. Use your new nut on reassembly, but each post should have 2 washers, 1 circular and 1 lock. Check all nuts have this. Do up the nuts hand tight, once you have the axle and bushings installed spin on the axle nut but with visible space between it and the bushing. I am assuming those fender brace bolts have been slacked right off. Now shake things up a bit. Get on the bike and pump the forks a few times. Then spin the wheel and if the GS Gods are on your side it should spin freely. Then tighten everything up, fender last.

I'll move on to these steps next.

[bccap]

Just want confirm that you have slackened the bolts that go from the fender brace to the fork, right off. What year and model 550 do you have so I can follow along with service manual ?

[hikermikem]

Just want confirm that you have slackened the bolts that go from the fender brace to the fork, right off. What year and model 550 do you have so I can follow along with service manual ?

His sig states 1980 550E

[bccap]

Yeah thanx I just noticed it. What a pain going through the service manual page by page. { over 700 }

[scott]

I assume this wasn't supposed to fall out of the speedometer cable - looks like it snapped.

Just want confirm that you have slackened the bolts that go from the fender brace to the fork, right off.

I thought I had but I double-checked and noticed I missed the back fender bolts (I had only done the front bolt on each side). I loosened the back bolt on the right side but the left side bolt is going to require some more work. I don't want to be too liberal with the PB Blaster and leak onto the brake caliper.

[TheCafeKid]

Been a while since I've messed with a single brake front end but I swear you're missing the top hat spacer on the right side (sitting on the bike) of the front wheel. Usually there are two spacers on the side. One is clamped in the end of the fork with the end caps, the other butts up against it and the wheel. But that's a two disc set up, I can't imagine they're that different however.