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    #16
    Are you using copper washers from the hardware store? Or aftermarket crush washers made for banjo sealing?

    Perhaps the hardware store ones are too hard?

    I've re-used the stock crush washers a few times without any issues... give them a good look on the sealing surface & don't use them if they're nicked or gouged. I always save the old washeres just in case I need one in a pinch, gotta a bunch of them in a bag somewhere.

    When I rebuild calipers, MC's or fab SS brake lines I use new aftermarket crush washers from Z1. They come 10 to a pack & they appear to be soft copper - no problems with them:

    Z1 Enterprises specializes in quality Motorcycle parts for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha Classic Japanese motorcycles from the 1970's and 1980's.
    '85 GS550L - SOLD
    '85 GS550E - SOLD
    '82 GS650GL - SOLD
    '81 GS750L - SOLD
    '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
    '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
    '82 GS1100G - SOLD
    '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

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      #17
      The stock crush washers are plated copper. They seem a smig harder than the plain copper Goodrich crush washers that Z1 Enterprises sells. With these, if you over tighten you can get a lot of crush, to the point of really deforming the washer. I prefer the stock washers.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #18
        Been using copper banjo washers from NAPA. Also the stock suzuki banjo bolts don't have the little step in them I am used to seeing on automotive applications. Is it just the tension from the banjo bolt that does the sealing? As opposed to the little notch that gets cut/pressed into them when snugged down on an automotive style banjo bolt.

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