Tires for 1982 GS1100e?

[Guest]

Stock sizes for the '81 GS1100e and what I'm thinking about using are:

Front: 3.50 x 19
possible replacement 110/90 x 19

Rear: 4.50 x 17
possible replacement 130/90 x 17

Does this give anybody concern? Other recommendations?

Also, does anybody know if this bike needs tubes? I forgot to check the rims for tubeless applications.

- thanks!

[Steve]

The 110 on the front is a bit large, the 100 is better. A 130 on the rear is fine.

As far as tubes are concerned, reading your rims is the ultimate authority, as your bike is from the era where where some were marked "tubeless applicable" and others were not.

If you are looking for brand suggestion, I would recommend looking through the MANY posts that will come up in a search, but it will come down to your riding style and what you expect of your tires. If you are looking for decent tires and ride somewhere between "sightseeing" and "spirited", the Shinko 230 Tour Master is a good tire. It is also VERY affordable, as you can usually get a pair of them shipped to your door for about $125 from Motorcycle Superstore.

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[AJ]

The 110 on the front is a bit large, the 100 is better. A 130 on the rear is fine.

As far as tubes are concerned, reading your rims is the ultimate authority, as your bike is from the era where where some were marked "tubeless applicable" and others were not.

If you are looking for brand suggestion, I would recommend looking through the MANY posts that will come up in a search, but it will come down to your riding style and what you expect of your tires. If you are looking for decent tires and ride somewhere between "sightseeing" and "spirited", the Shinko 230 Tour Master is a good tire. It is also VERY affordable, as you can usually get a pair of them shipped to your door for about $125 from Motorcycle Superstore.

Thanks, Steve. I was thinking about Shinko 712 tires (a sport/distance tire), mostly because I can find the same tire model for both front and rear). Had a Shinko on the rear of my Busa when I bought it, it was ok, wore ok, but that bike eats rear tires anyway. The 1100e is just intended as a hack-around toy and will be registered as an antique. Will take a look at the 230, which is only a little more expensive and is Aramid belted instead of nylon.

I'm curious about the 110/90-19 being too wide. I'll have to see what's on the bike now, but I think that's what it is.

[Nessism]

The 230 is a superior tire from a technical standpoint, and only a few $ more.

100 is a better fit on the 1.85" rim than a 110, although a 110 can be run if you insist.

Tons of tire info in the archives. Try "advanced search", toggle "titles only" and then search on key words such as "tires" or "tubes" or "tubeless". If you can't find the answer you aren't trying.

[bwringer]

Your rims are for tubes, although many have converted 82-83 1100E rims to tubeless with no issues.

Whether to convert is up to you. If it's going to keep you up at night, install tubes.

I'd agree with the advice to go with the 100/90-19 up front rather than the 110, and to opt for the 230 over the 712.

[AJ]

Your rims are for tubes, although many have converted 82-83 1100E rims to tubeless with no issues.

Whether to convert is up to you. If it's going to keep you up at night, install tubes.

I'd agree with the advice to go with the 100/90-19 up front rather than the 110, and to opt for the 230 over the 712.

Sounds good to me. The bike has a 110 on the front, but I'm good with the slightly smaller front which should make the bike turn quicker.

As for the tube vs. tubeless, I just checked the rims and you are right, they definitely are NOT marked tubeless. I'll do a search on the tubed vs. tubeless install on this rim, unless someone can point me to a particularly good thread covering this topic. I had assumed tubeless and was planning to replace the valve stem anyway, so not much price difference. Will have to check if I can use Dyna Beads with tubes.
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Ok, just searched the forum and found this thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=177136
My inclination is to use the tubes with them due to the possibility of losing lock with a flat tire, but plan to keep reading.

And, yes, you can use Dynabeads with a tube.

[bwringer]

Converting to tubeless involves machining a flat spot for the valve to sit -- this is especially crucial in the front, where the inside of the rim is curved all the way across.

I use a 5/8" counterbore with a 5/16" pilot for this (purchased from an aviation supply web site). It takes just a few seconds with a cordless drill:

Like so... (the stunt rim in this photo is actually a tubeless rim from a shaftie -- a GS1100E rim is curved across the center):





Some say you're doomed to a certain, grisly demise if you convert to tubeless; many have run tubeless for decades with no issues. The decision is up to you. If you have the least doubt or do not fully understand the risk factors, install tubes.

[AJ]

Converting to tubeless involves machining a flat spot for the valve to sit -- this is especially crucial in the front, where the inside of the rim is curved all the way across.

I use a 5/8" counterbore with a 5/16" pilot for this (purchased from an aviation supply web site). It takes just a few seconds with a cordless drill:

Like so... (the stunt rim in this photo is actually a tubeless rim from a shaftie -- a GS1100E rim is curved across the center):

Some say you're doomed to a certain, grisly demise if you convert to tubeless; many have run tubeless for decades with no issues. The decision is up to you. If you have the least doubt or do not fully understand the risk factors, install tubes.

Hey, thanks for the pics on the conversion. I would not have known how to do that conversion otherwise.

But I ordered tubes last night just to be on the safe side. Really not that much more expensive than buying new valve stems.

I cannot remember the last time I put a tube in a motorcycle tire. LOL! It has been a longgggg time.

I also got the Shinko 230s with 100/90-19 front per earlier recommendations. Thanks!