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    Brake Bleeding Questions ?

    Going to replace my brake lines in a couple of days. So I did a search and got a lot of useful information. Decided I am going to use a vacuum pump as per one of Nessism's recommendations. First question is. Is the front brake lever in the squeezed position when pumping ? And my second is. Does anyone have any tips on minimizing the mess when taking off the old lines ? { yes I'm going to bleed them first } Is much left in the lines and the cross over mechanism after bleeding ? I'm doing this in my apartment underground, and would prefer not to incur the wrath of my landlord.
    Old age and treachery will beat youth and skill every time1983 GS 750
    https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4256/3...8bf549ee_t.jpghttps://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4196/3...cab9f62d_t.jpg

    #2
    Pull all painted surfaces away from the brakes -- e.g., the tank, any fairing, panels, etc.

    I have not used the vacuum tool, but priming the MC is important. Replacing the bleeders with speed-bleeders was a big help also. That let me bleed the brakes without a second set of hands.

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      #3
      Thanks MC. If I understand Nessism correctly, priming the master cylinder isn't needed when using a vacuum pump, as it sucks the fluid through the system. What I was wondering is. Is it necessary to keep the break lever depressed through the whole process ? And once the old lines have been pumped. Is there a lot of fluid left in the lines to create a mess when disconnecting them ? Oh and what is a speed bleeder ?
      Old age and treachery will beat youth and skill every time1983 GS 750
      https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4256/3...8bf549ee_t.jpghttps://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4196/3...cab9f62d_t.jpg

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        #4
        Woohoo!! brake lines arrived.
        Old age and treachery will beat youth and skill every time1983 GS 750
        https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4256/3...8bf549ee_t.jpghttps://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4196/3...cab9f62d_t.jpg

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          #5
          Garth, you can do it over here. It might be hard coordinating time before Monday evening, though.
          '83 GS650G
          '83 GS550es (didn't like the colours in the 80's, but they've grown on me)

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by bccap View Post
            Thanks MC. If I understand Nessism correctly, priming the master cylinder isn't needed when using a vacuum pump, as it sucks the fluid through the system. What I was wondering is. Is it necessary to keep the break lever depressed through the whole process ? And once the old lines have been pumped. Is there a lot of fluid left in the lines to create a mess when disconnecting them ? Oh and what is a speed bleeder ?
            A speed bleeder is a bleeder nipple with a built-in check valve so it closes automatically and won't suck back any air when you are pumping the brake lever...I'm ordering some up from MotorcycleSuperstore.



            Someone on here can probably tell you what size you need for your 750. I think I'm good with an M8x1.25 for the 650GD.
            Last edited by BigD_83; 10-21-2011, 12:14 AM.
            '83 GS650G
            '83 GS550es (didn't like the colours in the 80's, but they've grown on me)

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              #7
              Originally posted by bccap View Post
              What I was wondering is. Is it necessary to keep the break lever depressed through the whole process ?
              I'm curious about this too.

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                #8
                When I've done them, it's generally been a two man job even with a vacuum pump. The second guy generally just making sure the RES never runs dry. If you don't pay attention and suck air in through the top, you'll have to start all over.

                And another suggestion, I've never tried the speed bleeders, but new bleeder valves are a good idea. Also, running a band of Teflon tape (plumbers tape) around them before you install them can help keep from sucking air around the valve itself. Also make sure the hose/attachment you use for your pump to the bleeder valve fits very tight or you'll suck air around the hose and valve which can make it seem as though you're still getting air bubbles.
                Honestly I've had more luck and better results just doing it the old fashioned way myself, but it may have been user error with the mighty vac

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                  #9
                  The vacuum pump bleeder will prime your master cylinder, but I can never get a good bleed with those pumps alone. Basically good for flushing the system or for installing new lines.

                  Here's a tip I posted on the Tips and Tricks forum:

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