Rear brake line - SS replacement

[Notz]

I'm getting ready to do a Rear SS line & caliper rebuild.
Got the rebuild parts for the calipers already.
I found this site for the SS line and thought the package price ($56.95) was OK.

http://spieglerusa.com/brake-line-kit-1109.htm

Seems to be all there, any caveats?
Lifetime Warranty?

I am assuming that the line will be pre-measured and assembled and will be mostly just an easy swap.

I'm a bit dubious about cutting my own hoses, and crimping on the fittings to save a few bucks.

Any advise is welcomed and most appreciated.

I searched for spieglerusa in the search and only came up with 'High End Gauges'
Hope I'm not committing a total noob repost thread.

[Rover]

Z1 Enterprises has various lengths,match yours to theirs.
This is what I do.

[hikermikem]

I bought a set of Spiegler front brake lines for my 1100G (now sold), before I started making my own... they are marketed as performance lines, as they are very light & strong.

A bit pricey compared to what you can make yourself.

They are quality lines, and you can rotate the banjo fittings to eliminate line twist using the special holding tool they send with the lines. The diameter of the lines are smaller than OEM, but the banjos are the same size.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Would be fine, Just remember no sharp bends, Use some 5/16 fuel line cut lengthwise for the hold down points on the frame

[1_v8_merc]

I like the Goodridge SS lines at Z1, they have the "screw-on" lines....it's literally plug n play, no cutting....the chrome finish was outstanding.

[Nessism]

I recommend Earl's. Cheapest option, high quality, and customized to your application by YOU. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=114521

[Notz]

SqDancerLynn1
no sharp bends, ok, coming underneath the caliper to the banjo bolt on the top rear isn't too sharp I hope.

Nessism I read your post before about making your own. You give the impression it's no trouble, of course you make most things sound that way

Rover & 1_v8_merc I priced what I need from Z1 and it looks as if it comes out to about $50.
I went to their site and found the SS hose for $19 and then the two connectors I need @ $10 each and the banjobolts @ $5 each and the crush washers @ $3.49
OK, I could use the money I save for assembly beverages.
Heck maybe I should just buy several feet from anplumbing.com and have a go like you pros.

Since I've not done this before, I'm going to ask...

What I will be doing is running a new single piece SS hose from (pictured) hose 1 to hose 2 and will be eliminating all parts inbetween. Correct?

Hold down the new hose with some fuel line along the frame.
Should I re-attach that metal spring near the caliper for any reason?

And what about a speed bleeder? Should I do this as well?

Thanks again.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Yes one long hose. Unless you are making your own hoses the spring cannot be re used. I did not put the spring on mine. Just leave a little extra length 1' or 2" on the rear for a genital loop into the caliper. Speed bleeders are not needed but can be used..

[twr1776]

I have used the Spiegler lines as well and been very happy with them. They are in the upper end price wise but are excellent quality lines IMHO. I used them for new front lines with Daytona bars on an L model and they did not have a kit listed for mine. I called and they recommended I send my old lines in to them with the top line cut to the new length I wanted. I noted the new upper banjo bolt angle I needed and they turned them around in 4 - 5 business days. They do come with a cheapie plastic tool to rotate the banjos to the angle you need for your bike and I bolted them down on one side and rotated the other fitting so it would not bind. It took longer to bleed them than install them. I did not get the speed bleeders but did get a Mityvac to bleed the lines. The Mityvac is the only tool for bleeding lines IMHO, you can do it by yourself and pull lots of fluid though quickly to completely bleed the system.

http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html