Fork Oil Change issue 450

[Phil]

I am attempting to change the fork oil on my bike, which I am guessing might be the first time its ever been done.

I currently have the forks removed and have drained out the oil.

I cannot for the life of me figure out how to depress the spring stopper on the top of the fork tube. It doesn't have an air valve, its just a metal plate with an indentation. The Clymer manual just says to carefully depress it. When I try it barely moves. Am I missing something? I can't seem to depress it enough to reveal the snap ring that it mentions. Also, do I need a tool to remove the snap ring?

Since the seal definitely isn't leaking I am not going to open the ball of wax of how to get the allen bolt out at the end of the tube!

Any help with this would be huge appreciated!

[hampshirehog]

That plate only has to move enough to take the pressure off the circlip (so next to nothing). To pull the clip you'll need a small screwdriver. Tip: cover the top with a rag as you pull the clip. They have a habit of flying off and hiding in places where you can't find them.

[Phil]

That plate only has to move enough to take the pressure off the circlip (so next to nothing). To pull the clip you'll need a small screwdriver. Tip: cover the top with a rag as you pull the clip. They have a habit of flying off and hiding in places where you can't find them.

For some reason I can't seem to budge it enough to see a clip. The most I can seem to move it is like a millimeter and that requires a fair amount of force. I'll keep trying and hopefully it will move a bit more.

[hampshirehog]

That's all they move sometimes. Try whacking it with a mallet / blunt screwdriver and see if it shifts any more. The clip is difficult to see - have a dig around in there with a small screwdriver - you may feel it before you see it.

[Nessism]

The cap retainer clip is nothing more than a piece of spring wire bent into a circular shape. A small screwdriver should dig it out, but a sharp hook tool like a dental pick works better. Depress the cap a small bit and then dig out the spring clip.

[DanTheMan]

If they're like mine were, they were so rusted up the rust was holding them in. You should put new seals on too, as long as you've opened them up that far. It would really stink to put it back together and have them leak.

[Phil]

That's all they move sometimes. Try whacking it with a mallet / blunt screwdriver and see if it shifts any more. The clip is difficult to see - have a dig around in there with a small screwdriver - you may feel it before you see it.

I tried using a hammer and a blunt screw driver. I can get it to budge a little, very little. I can see the clip. Just not sure how I can hold it down while attempting to dig out the clip. It seem to be a lot more force than the "gently" that the Clymer manual states.

[hampshirehog]

You'll get the knack. I push down with my left hand holding a blunt screwdriver or a small socket extension bar - sort of lock my body weight (fully bent elbow, arm locked) on to it and then just pry that clip out,

[Phil]

You'll get the knack. I push down with my left hand holding a blunt screwdriver or a small socket extension bar - sort of lock my body weight (fully bent elbow, arm locked) on to it and then just pry that clip out,

I have got it to the point where I can depress it to expose the clip. It needed a slightly bigger hammer

The issue now is that I can't seem to get the clip. The sucker just spins around when I try to get it. What do you use to get the clip out? If its a screwdriver it must be a damn small one.

It's like they purposefully designed it to be a pain in the ass.

[hampshirehog]

When all else fails just get a bigger hammer......

You will need a small sharp screwdriver. Do you have what we would term an electrician's screwdriver as that will do the trick? Put the sharp edge of the screwdriver against the lip of the clip and just give it a sharp push - it should get behind it. Then just pry the thing out - don't forget that rag or you'll spend the next week hunting for the bugger.

[Phil]

When all else fails just get a bigger hammer......

You will need a small sharp screwdriver. Do you have what we would term an electrician's screwdriver as that will do the trick? Put the sharp edge of the screwdriver against the lip of the clip and just give it a sharp push - it should get behind it. Then just pry the thing out - don't forget that rag or you'll spend the next week hunting for the bugger.

I tried an eye glasses repair screwdriver it's the smallest sharpest one I could find. I just can't see how on earth one can depress the cap and and get the spring clip out. It seems basically impossible to do with just 2 hands. It takes so much force to depress the cap that once I get it moved it's extremely difficult to hold it depressed while trying to dig at the ring with the other.

I am definitely frustrated at this point. I really don't want to bring the fork tube somewhere to just get them open to put oil in.

[Phil]

Update

Well I did end up going to someone for some help with the fork oil change. The PO had recommended a guy who did repair work inexpensively in Portland. Turns out the guy is super nice and seems to be very competent. He only charged me $20 to help me out with this.

Turns out we needed a vice and 2 people to get the snap ring and then it took a fair amount of massaging to get the topper out of one of the tubes. I guess 30 years of being stuck there can do that!

Anyhow it to was worth the $20 to know that there is someone a couple miles down the road who can help me out when I hit a road block and not for too much money. Certainly gives me more confidence to tackle some of the more difficult jobs like tearing down the carbs.