Front Brake rotor/caliper fitment ??? '77 GS750

[Jason5711]

Hello,

Can someone please post a picture of a properly assembled '77 GS750 front rotor/caliper assembly? (single disk version)

With the caliper installed the brake pad on the piston side is pressing on the rotor with no clearance. Causing the rotor to drag excessively; It would be impossible to mount the caliper with new pads. I think the rotor may be installed incorrectly.

Thanks.

[tom203]

Hello,

Can someone please post a picture of a properly assembled '77 GS750 front rotor/caliper assembly? (single disk version)

With the caliper installed the brake pad on the piston side is pressing on the rotor with no clearance. Causing the rotor to drag excessively; It would be impossible to mount the caliper with new pads. I think the rotor may be installed incorrectly.

Thanks.

Did you take the axle off and maybe misorient a washer? If no, any chance you have wrong pads? I'll assume piston went all the way back into caliper.

[GateKeeper]

have a look here

http://www.bikebandit.com/1977-suzuki-gs750b/o/m6100#sch284076

[TheCafeKid]

Hello,

Can someone please post a picture of a properly assembled '77 GS750 front rotor/caliper assembly? (single disk version)

With the caliper installed the brake pad on the piston side is pressing on the rotor with no clearance. Causing the rotor to drag excessively; It would be impossible to mount the caliper with new pads. I think the rotor may be installed incorrectly.

Thanks.

Two things:
One: Most of these calipers are set up where the pad constantly contacts the rotor to some degree. So if you hear it dragging a lil pushing it around that's expected.

Two: if it's dragging greatly, to the point that it's hard to turn the wheel, and you've double checked that the wheel/axle has it's spacers all intheir correct spots, you may need (probably do need if you've either never done it or haven't done it in a while) to disassemble the master cylinder and rebuild and clean it. There is a pressure return port that often gets clogged and won't let fluid return to the master causing the brakes to drag and even lock when the fluid temp comes up.

This isn't something I'd mess around with either, having had it happen to me (was using an aftermarket master with adjustable stroke and after a string of down hill corners had the brake seize on me) it's damn dangerous.

It's pretty tough to install the rotor incorrectly, however if you do take it apart you always always want to make sure the mating surface of both the rotor and the wheel are baby's butt smooth and clean.

[whiterabbitt]

that is unlikely, its always close, thats the nature of the system. it is probably water in the caliper, and old rotted seals and o-rings causing it to hang up, at least that was my problem. remove the caliper, slide the mounting bracket away from the piston and press the piston back into the caliper. if there is any play in the bracket ( it should slide smoothly, no wiggle in any direction) its the caliper axle o-rings, if you cant press the piston EASILY back into the caliper, disassemble, clean everything thoroughly, inspect for wear, and buy and install the piston kit for it. the kit will have a new piston and all the rubber bits you need.
come to think of it, just get the kit.
partshark.com has the piston kit at a good price and its worth it to just go all the way in this department.

ps dont get brake fluid on the paint!

[Jason5711]

-I have not taken the axle off; I bought the bike like this.

-I have already removed the caliper and pressed the piston back into the cylinder.

-The master cylinder does need to be rebuilt.

-Wheel/axle spacers seem like the culprit...