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**salty_monk** · 12-16-2011, 01:45 AM

Originally posted by cowboyup3371 View Post

As Salty_Monk was unable to find his 35mm damper valves from last month, I bought a set from MikesXS two weeks ago. I'm ready to install them (damper rods were drilled out today by a friend) but am unsure of the configurations even after reading the instructions included. Could someone please help?

Based on the pictures, I think I have to turn the black allen screw at the spring side. Is this the valve spring preload setting they are referring to? That screw is turned two full turns and then the nut is tightened at the opposite end? Yes!

From there, I just place them on top of the damper rods and then follow the same fork assembly instructions as found on Basscliff's site or in the Clymers? Yes as long as they fit well in the cup on the damper rod and fit reasonably well inside the fork then you'll be fine.

Do I still include the springs that came on the damper rods?
Yes
Should I freeze these seals or is it easier to just install them as is?
no need, tap them in using a piece of PVC pipe / large socket or similar as a drift. Mamke sure you are hitting the solid part of the seal.
How important is it to torque them with a torque wrench? Is there another way if I don't have the right bits or should I get a set of socket allen heads? (I have T-handle and a set of regular allen wrenches). Not hugely important, they need to be quite tight but nothing you shouldn't be able to do with a standard Allen key and a strong hand.

Thanks for the help. I don't have the camera working right now so I can't take any pictures tonight.

Scott I've added in to your quote. On phone so sorry if the formatting is off!

**cowboyup3371** · 12-16-2011, 01:53 AM

Thanks Dan. Will start working on that this weekend then.

**TheCafeKid** · 12-16-2011, 01:53 AM

These only effect rebound damping no? How many "clicks" of adjustment?

**cowboyup3371** · 12-16-2011, 02:02 AM

Just tried, no clicks but about 10 full turns of adjustment before it stops. I can see why two full turns

**cowboyup3371** · 12-16-2011, 02:06 AM

I'll post this comment up here as well as I just asked TCK on the phone too...

How do I know when the suspension feels right/wrong before I put things on the bike and ride? I'm still learning this stuff so please bear with the questions.

**cowboyup3371** · 12-16-2011, 11:46 AM

So after getting some advice through text messages with TCK, I read the article at this site: http://www.racetech.com/articles/sus...andsprings.htm

I understand how to check the rear shocks by getting the wheel off the ground first (bike on center stand with a block of wood underneath to get wheel off ground) and then measuring from there. So I think I can do the rears without too big of an issue as long as my stepdaughter measures correctly

However, I'm having problems working the front suspension check out in my head. The article says to:

Step 1: Extend the fork completely and measure from the wiper (the dust seal atop the slider) to the bottom of the triple clamp (or lower fork casting on inverted forks; Figure 2).

Does this mean I have to get the front wheel completely off the ground as well or can I just check this setting before I even install the front wheel?

Based on everything else I'm reading, I think I'll be okay with the basic putting together of the forks but this is my big question right now.

As I'm at work and can't measure what PVC I have, does anyone know of the right PVC diameter that will work with these fork legs? Would I be smart to pre-cut various sizes of spacer before starting out so the work doesn't take as long?

**cowboyup3371** · 12-16-2011, 01:54 PM

Never mind, I found my answer. As long as the front wheel is off the ground I'm fine so I will put the forks back on, measure it, re-install the front wheel and then check the rest of the measurements.

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