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    #16
    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
    Or you could just loosen the bolts before you take the forks out of the bike and remove the springs, the spring tension holds the dampers from turning very nicely. Use an air impact, easy as could be.
    This is assuming everyone owns an air impact.
    I do, but I still use a broom handle.
    sigpic

    82 GS850
    78 GS1000
    04 HD Fatboy

    ...............................____
    .................________-|___\____
    ..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|

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      #17
      + one on the broom handle. Though sometimes I use a rake handle
      79 GS1000S
      79 GS1000S (another one)
      80 GSX750
      80 GS550
      80 CB650 cafe racer
      75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
      75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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        #18
        Actually the one I like to use is plastic. Tap it in with a hammer. Works like a charm.
        sigpic

        82 GS850
        78 GS1000
        04 HD Fatboy

        ...............................____
        .................________-|___\____
        ..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|

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          #19
          Originally posted by Octain View Post
          This is assuming everyone owns an air impact.
          I do, but I still use a broom handle.
          It works with or without an air impact. It's just easier.
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

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            #20
            Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
            It works with or without an air impact. It's just easier.
            Agreed. Like I said earlier, I just used a standard 3/8ths drill with the socket adapter and a hex socket.
            Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

            1981 GS550T - My First
            1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
            2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

            Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
            Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
            and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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              #21
              Okay I'm obviously late on this thread.

              I used a bolt with a 19mm hex head and two matching nuts. I threaded the nuts onto the bolt and jammed them nice and tight. Then I attached a 19mm socket on to the end of a Craftsman 20" 3/8" square drive extension.

              It worked like a charm.

              The extension cost me $12 and change; the bolt and nuts I bought at Lowe's for about a dollar (I think).

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                #22
                Remember the '60's simplicity, when the forks were just internally threaded tubes (at the top), one of my best early wrenching days was when I realized the front axle had the same threads as the tube top, pulled the tube right up against the external spring pressure, easy-peasy. A very special fork tool, lol. Some Yamaha tiddler I was working on for a relative.
                sigpicSome of the totally committed probably should be.
                '58 + '63 Vespa 150's' (London, GB/RI, US)
                '67 X6 T20 ('67 Long Beach, Ca.- misty-eyed)
                '71 Kaw. A1-ugh ('71 SF, CA- worked @ Kaw dlr)
                '66 Yam. YL1('72 SF-commuter beater)
                '73 Kaw. S2A-2Xugh ('73 SF-still parts slave)
                '78 GS 750C ('77 SF-old faithful-killed by son)
                '81 KZ 750E ('81 SF-back to Kaw. dlr)
                '81 GS 650G ('08 back to NE&ME- (project)
                '82 GS '82 (2) GS650GZ, L, Middlebury, G current

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                  #23
                  way late to the party....

                  but here is my way of making the tool, no welding required, just some threaded pipe





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