GS1100E fork questions

[Guest]

About to change my fork oil in my 1982 1100E and have some questions for the assembled experts.

Manual says 15 WT. Any preference? Synthetic?

I've usually filled the fork by volume of oil in a graduated cylinder, but that's old skool. Suggestions for tool to measure level?

Wasn't really thinking about Progressive fork springs because of cost considerations, but I'm willing to listen.

Any other thoughts since I'm opening these up anyway?

Thank you!.

[Bookmon]

I am using 10w fork oil. Do you have the air valve forks?

[hampshirehog]

I use synthetic as it's all I can find easily nowadays - it's fine.

For measuring the level I use a cheap syringe with a bit of tube stuck on the end and measured for the level. That's is all the 'proper tool' is anyway.

If you are happy with your forks there's no need to change. It's your call.

When you have the forks in bits give the internals a really good clean; you would be surprised at the muck you'll likely find in there.

[AJ]

Thank you, gents.

I've been doing a little more research. There is a whole community of folks advocating using automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in forks.

I also found this very interesting site, although I have not fully digested the info.
http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm

[rapidray]

I use 20 wt when not changing the valving. Even with good fork springs, the stock dampening is lacking. Plus, the bike is heavy & needs the help. Unless, of course, you only weigh 150 pounds & never ride 2 up. Just MY opinion on them but this setup works for me & the forks I do for customers. Ray.

[speedyandypandy]

Thank you, gents.

I've been doing a little more research. There is a whole community of folks advocating using automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in forks.

I also found this very interesting site, although I have not fully digested the info.
http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm

Peter Verdone is a clever man, but he is preaching about the top end of tuning that people with modern/performance running gear can feel the benefit from(if it's a talented rider), us mere mortals don't need to be that accurate, try a 15w, if it feels to firm or saggy change to a different one, if you have modulators/gas filled cartridge/ highly tuned suspension and skills to match then you need to worry about oil in the same degree that PV is writing about.

Just my 50 cents worth