GS1000EN fork pressure

[Greenbraes]

I know there may well be info here but I seem to have missed it....becoming more common the older I get......I am rebuilding the front forks and will be installing a set of 'progressive suspension' springs in them. The instructions call for the main spacers to be removed because of fork length...but there is no mention of air pressure....I have looked about and 11psi (ish) is mentioned, but when I bought the small hand pump to pump them up all the manufactures give you gauges between 200 and 400psi.....am I missing something???...any ideas to get a primary set up would be great

cheers

RB

[sedelen]

The GS1000's came with a little gauge, I got one somewhere but it's damaged, don't trust it, so I use a small hand pump and a tire guage.
Anyway, in the owners manual page 50 it states 11psi as being the standard optimum pressure, and it says don't take it above 35psi or you'll blow the seals.
The trick is to get the pressure you want with the front wheel off the ground, have a friend sit on it using the centerstand.

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS1000E_Owners_Manual_79.pdf

[BassCliff]

Hi,

After installing Progressive springs and getting the right length of spacer, I found no need to use air any more. Set your "sag" to about 1/3 of the total travel of your forks, a little less if you like a stiffer ride.

My experience:

Install Progressive Fork Springs


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[hampshirehog]

Clif has called it correctly. Don't pump your forks up (no air) - just follow the progressive instructions over setting sag and you'll be happy.

[Greenbraes]

cheers guys...well that is them rebuilt (just waiting on a new air valve for one of them)...here are some pics from a dry fitting with the ebay brace

before



after (dry fit)



and one of the brace



just on the subject of the 'micron' brace...does anyone know what the torque settings are for the clamps?

next job the disks off, soda blast and paint the wheel (tomorrow if weather is good) then new disks, new calipers and new master cylinder and hoses on (well only new to the bike..all ex ebay)
..also have to have a look at the mudguard but maybe do this later


RB

[hampshirehog]

There were never any torque specs as far as I know for Micron fork braces - just 'nice and tight' does the trick. Make sure you follow the proper procedure for tightening or else you could jam your forks.

By the way - Microns are the best braces you can get in my opinion. Getting seriously expensive now though - hope you got a good deal.

[Greenbraes]

I bought the brace from ebay so I have nothing like instructions....if you know of anything I have to watch for let me know...I am off to search for some now.....I see there are elongated (is that the right spelling?) holes on the cross piece which I take it is to fine tune?.....my only worry is I squash the fork tops if I over tighten


cheers

RB

[hampshirehog]

You need to put the front wheel in first and tighten the forks following the sequence described in the manual. Then add the brace - tighten the clamps that fit round the fork bottoms first and let the cross piece 'self adjust'. then tighten this up, checking the fit as you bounce the forks up and down. If you get any binding stop and start again.

[Greenbraes]

thanks for that...makes sence when you think about it...doing the wheel tomorrow so will set it up probably at the weekend

RB

[Greenbraes]

Well thats the wheel and disks blasted/painted, calipers and forks (progresive springs) blasted/painted & rebuilt and everything dry fitted



New wheel bearings due tomorrow then the brake lines will go on....a new tyre is also to be purchased, this one was made in 1992!!!...sort of out of date..lol...still haven't made my mind up yet but will be the sportiest I can get

RB