Rusty Fork Tube

[flatty_420]

Be careful not to cock the caps sideways.

I think I may have done just that. They don't really look like it, but they will not budge. I have a tie down strap holding the forks compressed all the way to put as much pressure as possible on the caps and cannot get them to move any more at all....up or down.

[GateKeeper]

Be careful, if it lets go, and you have the forks compressed like that, your going to see spings flying out of there like no tomorrow.....

I would get them tie down straps off, the weight of the front end should be enough to push the caps up and out....

interesting how we have similar bikes, mine is an 83, and I have the big chrome screws that hold everything in, and your bike don't

[flatty_420]

Be careful, if it lets go, and you have the forks compressed like that, your going to see spings flying out of there like no tomorrow.....

I would get them tie down straps off, the weight of the front end should be enough to push the caps up and out....

interesting how we have similar bikes, mine is an 83, and I have the big chrome screws that hold everything in, and your bike don't

Oh, they are not letting go. I spent quite a while on them. I cannot make them move at all. I sure wish I had your big chrome caps.

[Nessism]

Oh, they are not letting go. I spent quite a while on them. I cannot make them move at all. I sure wish I had your big chrome caps.

Get some Evaporust like I suggested and soak them.

[GateKeeper]

the evaporust will help for sure, in the meantime, you can try to put the socket back on and tap gently around and around, to try and square it up again, once it is straight and not cock eyed, they might come up, maybe even a bit of PB Blaster or the likes to lubricate things a bit....

take the straps off if your going to do the above....

.

[gearhead13]

There were probably rubber caps on them when new to keep the rust from happening.
The problem with online fiche is that pretty much all of it is US based and you have a bike unique to Canada and maybe parts of Europe. I searched for ages for a Canadian online fiche for my 40mm Gsxr carbs , never found one, although some from the UK were similar.

[flatty_420]

the evaporust will help for sure, in the meantime, you can try to put the socket back on and tap gently around and around, to try and square it up again, once it is straight and not cock eyed, they might come up, maybe even a bit of PB Blaster or the likes to lubricate things a bit....

take the straps off if your going to do the above....

.

Yep, that's what I spent quite a while doing...trying to square them up. I will have to get some PB and Evaporust and give them a go to see if that will help. I will definately take the straps off b4 doing any more work to it.

[flatty_420]

There were probably rubber caps on them when new to keep the rust from happening.
The problem with online fiche is that pretty much all of it is US based and you have a bike unique to Canada and maybe parts of Europe. I searched for ages for a Canadian online fiche for my 40mm Gsxr carbs , never found one, although some from the UK were similar.

I am finding this tp be painfully true. It seems to be ever so slightly different in quite a few little ways.

[mike_of_bbg]

Good suggestions so far. Pouring a 50/50 acetone/ATF mix in there would be where I'd start, or soak that thing in PB blaster. Just pool it. If the sticktion is below the o-ring I'm wondering if Evapo-rust could get down there. I have push caps, too, and one was a bit stubborn. But mine also have schrader valves in the caps, so I could put pliers on those to help rock/pull them up. I'm kind of wondering if they're that bad if drilling/tapping and putting a bolt in wouldn't be the way to go. Careful with your clips out though! If they decide to let go they may do so with some force!

Maybe some gentle heat, too?

[flatty_420]

Maybe some gentle heat, too?

I wondered aboot that too, but I believe somebody earlier in the thread said there were orings to be careful of in there.

[flatty_420]

I'm kind of wondering if they're that bad if drilling/tapping and putting a bolt in wouldn't be the way to go.

This has crossed my mind as well. The oil is already out of the forks though.....I wonder if shrapnel from the drilling would be hard to clean out?

[JEEPRUSTY]

Pump some air into the Schrader valve?

[JEEPRUSTY]

Where are you in NB? I have a pair of 750 forks with the hex head caps.

Somone did a number on the plumbing for the anti-dive but i think it was just done to defeat the apparatus not to permanently harm it.

[hampshirehog]

Using a punch, or an old socket bar, give those caps a sharp smack. They'll come out.

[flatty_420]

I'm located in SE NB, near Saint John. I have Evaporust pooled in the tops sitting overnight. Tomorrow overnight, I will pool PB Blaster in there. Then I will have another go at the caps with a punch and try again to get them out.

Not sure I understand the anti-dive....it almost looks like the fork oil and brake fluid are shared? That seems ridiculous to me, and the more I think aboot it, the more I doubt that is the case but the modulator valve plumbing seems to go to the brake cylinder and connect using the same banjo bolt that the brake line connects with.

Thanks for all the suggestions so far guys....this site is a treasure trove of knowledge and info.