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77gs 750 anti dive ?
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bubby
77gs 750 anti dive ?
how do i know if my 1977 gs 750 has that anti dive the front and rear pads are new but it seems like my back brake works better than the front i have bled them both out tell i got clean brake fluid i have the single rotor setup for 77 there is a union under the tree but thats all i see as a additional part to the brake line that goes from the master to the caliperTags: None
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7981GS
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TheCafeKid
Anti-dive was a system of valves in the fork that has nothing to do with brake pads or the calipers. Your bike doesn't have anti-dive. Unless the forks have been switched out. Anti-dive systems were not implemented on GSes until 82/83 model years ad only on certain models.
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DannyMotor
Not only what both of these guys said... but you will always lock up the rear before the front. ALWAYS. If your front brake is "squishy" its due to old rubber lines... upgrade to stainless or just replace them with new OEM ones. The rear brake will rarely feel as squishy from the steel mid pipe between the two short rubber ends... but can always and should be replaced or upgraded when doung the fronts.
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bubby
yea i want stainless lines i did put a non-directional finish on the rotor and beveled the leading edge of the pads but did nothing to the pad contact service
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GateKeeper
this is an anti dive unit....the silver thing on the left side of the picture
this is on a 83, GS750E
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bubby
ok i see.. mine does not have that i gave 1 hose, 1 rotor, and 1 piston lol i want the 78 twin rotor fork setup but this is what makes my gs stand out as a 77 i can only think that theoretically twin caliper setup would stop in a shorter distanceLast edited by Guest; 05-13-2012, 06:31 PM.
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DannyMotor
So will new pads, refreshed caliper, rebuilt master cylinder, and stainless lines...
It's all relative... Might want to start there... then, if you STILL feel the need to do the deed... you can simply get your fork lowers, rotor, caliper, and make another brake line.
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by DannyMotor View PostSo will new pads, refreshed caliper, rebuilt master cylinder, and stainless lines...
It's all relative... Might want to start there... then, if you STILL feel the need to do the deed... you can simply get your fork lowers, rotor, caliper, and make another brake line.
Or we're you referring to dual disk brakes??
The difference in stopping power between dual and single disc is negligable. The single disc bikes used a much larger rotor than the rotors on the twin disc (in fact the rotor is the same size as the rear rotor)
Its more aesthetically pleasing to the eye IMO to have dual disc, but the added unsprung weight is noticeable IMO as well.Last edited by Guest; 05-14-2012, 01:30 AM.
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bubby
update..... i was checking the pads and front rotor and noticed the pads dont cover the whole rotor ...... the bike has a smaller rotor it's sapposta be 11 1/2 inches and its just under 11 im looking for a new rotor .... i just got the bike 3 weeks ago po must have put on a different rotor... i think this is my problem still want stainless lines ......this bike is a basket case in need of alot of tlc
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Sounds like someone put a rotor from a dual brake bike on yours, they have smaller rotors. Get the right rotor and decent new pads, then with your steel lines it will stop fairly well for an old bike as long as the calipers and master cylinder are spotless inside.
If you are serious about braking convert it to dual brakes, might as well get the ones from a post 1980 GS which have much better brakes. If you are really serious get Salty Monk's twin pot brake conversion.
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bubby
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