I also have a Vetter, and went with the 15w fork oil. Although the ride is nice, the dive when braking hard is a bit much yet. This winter, I plan on a full rebuild including seals (and polishing the lowers), and might try 20w. We'll see how that rides.
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Fork Oil Change Today, "Without" Fork Cap Removal
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850GT_Rider
Last year, when I installed the Sonic springs, the old fork oil I drained out was a distinctly different color in each fork. No telling what the PO's had in there.
I also have a Vetter, and went with the 15w fork oil. Although the ride is nice, the dive when braking hard is a bit much yet. This winter, I plan on a full rebuild including seals (and polishing the lowers), and might try 20w. We'll see how that rides.
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if you raise the oil level the bike won't dive as much? I think it makes the spring rate a little more progressive by reducing the air volume above the oil. I've played around a little on the hawk and the 1150.
The hawk i use 10w fork oil at stock height, it has aftermarket springs, I don't know what kind but they are straight rate.
The 1150 has progressive brand aftermarket springs and I have 15w fork oil about 1 inch higher level than stock. I still run 10lbs air pressure even though progressive suggests none. The PDF is on 3. feels pretty good to me, but maybe could be better. next time I replace seals I will install gold valve emulators and block off the PDF.
I have tried 20w a long time ago, (with stock springs) and remember it being harsh. I may go down that road again yet, with the suzuki.
Also when I fill the forks, I overfill them a little then suck the oil level down with the the vacuum pump, (brake bleeder) or sucker gun etc, through a marked piece of 1/4 inch steel tubing, to the desired level. It is easier than measuring with a tape measure.Last edited by derwood; 07-15-2012, 02:38 AM.GSX1300R NT650 XV535
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