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    brake bleeding again...

    ... and again, and some more.

    I have read many threads about brake bleeding and the tips in Bass Cliff's site. I will get right to the problem - spongy lever that goes to the grip. The air is in the calipers. I know this because I used line clamps right above both calipers and the lever is hard. The problem started when I replaced the lines and rebuilt the calipers. I have used my mighty vac and the old lever down bleeder open/closed technique.

    Any ideas?

    New crush washers, pads, hoses (OEM), caliper seals and dust boot, rebuilt MC, and lots of fluid.

    I used Teflon tape on the bleeders. The mighty vac has never pulled solid fluid, but plenty of fluid from the reservoir.

    Right now I used the MC and line clamp to pressurize the system and tied the lever down. I will leave it over night and see what happens.

    Thanks in advance.

    P.S. I was wondering if I should lean the bike to the right to bleed left caliper and vice versa for the right side
    Last edited by Guest; 06-15-2012, 10:54 PM. Reason: New idea

    #2
    Originally posted by subforry View Post
    ... and again, and some more.

    I have read many threads about brake bleeding and the tips in Bass Cliff's site. I will get right to the problem - spongy lever that goes to the grip. The air is in the calipers. I know this because I used line clamps right above both calipers and the lever is hard. The problem started when I replaced the lines and rebuilt the calipers. I have used my mighty vac and the old lever down bleeder open/closed technique.

    Any ideas?

    New crush washers, pads, hoses (OEM), caliper seals and dust boot, rebuilt MC, and lots of fluid.

    I used Teflon tape on the bleeders. The mighty vac has never pulled solid fluid, but plenty of fluid from the reservoir.

    Right now I used the MC and line clamp to pressurize the system and tied the lever down. I will leave it over night and see what happens.

    Thanks in advance.

    P.S. I was wondering if I should lean the bike to the right to bleed left caliper and vice versa for the right side
    have you taken the caliper off yet >?? if so how did the dust boot look>>>? you may want to look into a rebuild kit there, it may be the sorce of you leak... are you also bleeding farthers to closet to the brake master cylindar>>? ( left to right)

    Comment


      #3
      he has a spongy lever

      not a leak

      my gizmo for brake bleeding...





      .
      Last edited by Guest; 06-15-2012, 11:13 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        [QUOTE=GateKeeper;1671609]he has a spongy lever

        not a leak

        .[/QUOTEft

        ok, when bleeding him, do you do left to right side>??? have you flushed all the fuild>??? do you use Dot 3 or 4>?? when does is seem the spongyest>?? is it all the time, or when the brakes is hot>?? are the brake pad in spec>?

        Comment


          #5
          rebuilt both calipers with new OEM parts.

          Castrol GT LMA DOT4 - who would use anything less?

          Yes, bled left then right (furthest from the MC to closest).

          There is no pressure in the lever, riding it would very dumb. I am very frustrated because I have not been able to ride it.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by subforry View Post
            rebuilt both calipers with new OEM parts.

            Castrol GT LMA DOT4 - who would use anything less?

            Yes, bled left then right (furthest from the MC to closest).

            There is no pressure in the lever, riding it would very dumb. I am very frustrated because I have not been able to ride it.
            sorry, I understand you frustration. have you replaced the brake lines them self.???? after time they start to flex, I myself are going to replace mine with stainless, when the budget lets me... also, how is the master cylindar>>> maybe time for a rebuild.????

            Comment


              #7
              I had the same issue after rebuilding everything...

              Read this post, it worked for me...


              This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.
              Bob T. ~~ Play the GSR weekly photo game: Pic of Week Game
              '83 GS1100E ~ '24 Triumph Speed 400 ~ '01 TRIUMPH TT600 ~ '67 HONDA CUB

              Comment


                #8
                Are the calipers on their respective sides and the bleeders on top? It seems like you have done everything right and this is just a possibility that comes to mind. From what I have seen on vehicles/bikes they can be mounted on the wrong side with the only problem being the bleeder screw on the bottom not letting all the air escape. You shouldn't have to lean the bike.

                I'm also guessing you don't have as fancy a brake setup as GateKeeper. Me neither.
                I also don't have a sweet project/rebuild thread like he does.


                Have a good weekend everyone.
                Erik

                1982 GS550M

                Dyna S, Dyna greens, coil relay mod w/LED, Sonic Springs (.90)

                Comment


                  #9
                  A little plumbers tape on the bleeder threads can help. I also hold the mityvac fitting firmly on the bleeder. And make sure it is still sucking when I tighten it back up. Also do not reuse the brake fluid you are bleeding with.
                  Old age and treachery will beat youth and skill every time1983 GS 750
                  https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4256/3...8bf549ee_t.jpghttps://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4196/3...cab9f62d_t.jpg

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks all, it is working but I think there might still be some air in the calipers.

                    Baatfam's advice got it working enough to try a test drive. I could still pull the lever to the grip. After the drive I pulled the calipers, with the pads in place I pulled the lever several times till the piston stopped and then pushed in back in. I did this 3 or 4 times on each side, reattached the calipers and did a quick bleed. Now I can't pull the lever to the grip but it does not feel quite right yet. i will try some easy trips and then bleed it again.

                    My advice is if you rebuild the calipers, move the piston in and out several times.

                    Also I think it is a good idea to turn the bars away from the side you bleeding. This makes sure the bleed screw channel is at the highest point.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Bleed the master cylinder without the lever using a screwdriver to push in the piston. There is a bit of air that gets trapped since the lever does not push the piston in the whole way.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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