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koolaid_kid
Exactly. There is no more risk AFA leaving the rim is concerned. What a tube will get for you is an opportunity to pull the wheel every time you have a flat to remove and patch the tube. With a tubeless tire you just plug, inflate and go.
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Originally posted by koolaid_kid View PostWorked for me. Tubes are nothing but a PITA. Requires a bit of work to make the valve stems seal correctly, though.
Why are the valve stems an issue, don't they just screw on and seal with an o-ring?
So now you all have me thinking to just get a plug kit and a spare stem or two for my emergency kit.
-DaveLast edited by 5azzmonkey; 07-01-2012, 09:58 AM.82 GS1100E
five asses because it's far superior to having just four!
Yes, I watched too much South Park!
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koolaid_kid
You need to ream out a flat spot wide enough for the rubber bits on the valve stem to seal properly. On my 83, the rear was fine, but the front was curved at the sides, preventing a proper seal. bwringer used a reaming tool, but you could probably get it done with a Dremel if you have the skills. Once that was done, perfection. And no more hassling with those damm tubes.
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koolaid_kid
After that, you will need a plug kit and a small air compressor, plus a 12V connection to the battery. The Slime compressor looks like a nice unit. I carry a cheap Harbor Freight unit.
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Originally posted by koolaid_kid View PostYou need to ream out a flat spot wide enough for the rubber bits on the valve stem to seal properly. On my 83, the rear was fine, but the front was curved at the sides, preventing a proper seal. bwringer used a reaming tool, but you could probably get it done with a Dremel if you have the skills. Once that was done, perfection. And no more hassling with those damm tubes.
-Dave82 GS1100E
five asses because it's far superior to having just four!
Yes, I watched too much South Park!
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Duncan
No. All you would be doing is making a nice clean seat for the tubeless valve - nothing substantial. You quite possibly wouldn't have to do anything. To revert back to a tube you'd just cut off the tubeless valve, stick the tube inside the 'tubeless' tyre and its valve back through the hole.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13914
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
On very similar bikes (gs1000E versuse gs1000G) I got at least 4k miles extra out of the rear Avon on the G which was setup tubeless....
Run cooler tubeless so I don't think it's coincidence. Out of the two the G did more freeway work and was ridden 2 up or fully loaded etc so if anything should have got less miles..1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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Originally posted by Steve View PostSorry, I have never heard of any different types of tubes (haven't had to buy any for YEARS), but I do believe that your 1100 needs TUBELESS tires.
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sigpic
Steve
"The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
_________________
'79 GS1000EN
'82 GS1100EZ
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Originally posted by 5azzmonkey View PostWould doing so prevent me from reverting back to tubes?
-Dave
Ignore those anti tube guys - I've used them for the entire 34 years I've had my wire wheel 78 1000 and never (never) had a problem.Some people just can't mount tires correctly
The natural rubber tubes do delflate slowly, had a nail on Wolf Creek Rd and that saved my ass big time1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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7981GS
Originally posted by Big T View PostYes
Ignore those anti tube guys - I've used them for the entire 34 years I've had my wire wheel 78 1000 and never (never) had a problem.Some people just can't mount tires correctly
The natural rubber tubes do delflate slowly, had a nail on Wolf Creek Rd and that saved my ass big time
Eric
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Butyl versus natural rubber:
"Natural rubber" is a polymer of isoprene. Rubber tree sap has a lot of it. So do milk weeds, and lots of other plants. It is far stretchier than butyl rubber, and a small puncture is less likely to become a big tear. But it holds air very poorly.
Butyl rubber is a polymer of butylene. When made properly, it holds air about 100 times better than natural rubber. Almost all tubes are made of butyl rubber.
Tubelss tires have a thin layer (or two) of butyl rubber (actually cholobutyl or bromobutyl, for the technical folks) on the inside surface. Since it is bonded to the tire body, the chance of it tearing is essentially zero.
If you use a natural rubber tube, you should probably add air at least once per day.
I've never installed a tube in a motorcycle tire, but I've done it countless times on bicycles. I find it very useful to use powedered talc and lots of care to be sure that the tube isn't pinched in any way.sigpic[Tom]
“The greatest service this country could render the rest of the world would be to put its own house in order and to make of American civilization an example of decency, humanity, and societal success from which others could derive whatever they might find useful to their own purposes.” George Kennan
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koolaid_kid
Originally posted by Big T View PostYes
Ignore those anti tube guys - I've used them for the entire 34 years I've had my wire wheel 78 1000 and never (never) had a problem.Some people just can't mount tires correctly
The natural rubber tubes do delflate slowly, had a nail on Wolf Creek Rd and that saved my ass big time
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I have been running no tubes for 3 years now and from my understanding, a simple puncture will leak very slowly in a tubeless tire as long as the offending object (nail) stays in place. This is safer than a tube which will most likely tear and release the air more quickly. I don't see any advantage to running a tube unless the rim won't hold air.NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS
Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R
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Originally posted by koolaid_kid View PostYou don't have a choice, he does.1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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koolaid_kid
Originally posted by Big T View PostA cast wheel does not equate to tubeless -of it isn't stamped tubeless, why tempt fate?
Not sure about the tempting fate part, though. Many of us run/ran tubeless on those rims, myself included. I never felt that I was tempting fate, I was making it much easier to fix a flat. Dealer's choice.
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