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GS1100 Front Fork ???

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    GS1100 Front Fork ???

    Quick Recap!

    > Recently bought an 82' GS1100G (Barn Find)

    > Attempting a Frame-up restoration cafe racer, (trying to powder coat the forks)

    ? Trying to disassemble 2nd front fork and I run into the problem of the inner tube slipping while trying to take out the bottom bolt on the slider.

    >! I don't want to damage anything and haven't come across an accurate description on how to do this yet.

    > the top of the fork still has the air valve assembly on it. Ive gathered online that i may need to remove this cap/valve before i can secure the inner tube and remove the assembly?

    > Unsure about how to proceed...

    ~Nate
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Guest; 09-24-2012, 09:00 PM.

    #2
    Down to the frame

    Comment


      #3
      first brought home
      Attached Files

      Comment


        #4


        You can use a modified wood dowel, an impact wrench, a 7/8" socket with a enough extensions to get you out of the tube, or ((like me (against the advice from everyone else, purchase a suzuki tool 09940-34581 and suzuki t-handle adapter 09940-34520)). The tool allowed me to get the most stubborn fork apart. If I had used it from the get-go I would be back on the road already. Instead I'm searching the world high and low for the most meager 1/16" x 17/32" roll/pinch pin to get it reassembled.

        My bike is an '80 GS 1100E but your forks look identical to mine...

        Comment


          #5
          K here is the tool I made for my 1100E forks (that is the nut welded at the end), works great, oh and those are my lower fork legs, torque arm, and the top tree mount powder coated.
          Last edited by mrbill5491; 09-26-2012, 05:10 PM.
          sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
          1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
          2015 CAN AM RTS


          Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

          Comment


            #6
            That's perfect!

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              #7
              Not having a welder at my disposal now, I made up a simple tool using a few nuts and a length of threaded bar, cost a few bucks at the local hardware store.

              See my fork rebuild here.



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                #8
                Saw yours in another post, Flyboy. Like your ingenuity.

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                  #9
                  Suzuki tools:

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Fits just like a socket:

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by bluehwy View Post
                      Fits just like a socket: [ATTACH]17792[/ATTACH]
                      Bet mine was cheaper
                      sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                      1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                      2015 CAN AM RTS


                      Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by mrbill5491 View Post
                        Bet mine was cheaper

                        Comment


                          #13
                          air valve???

                          i think i will be attempting the home made version first since i have a spare set of forks i can use if i destroy the originals...

                          also, this may be a stupid question but how the heck do i get the top air valve off of the tube so that i can access the inside? i don't want to damage anything by trying to remove it the wrong way... here's what i mean...

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I found that I have only needed that tool once, because I found if I use an impact on the bottom bolt BEFORE I remove the top cap and spring that it generally comes right out. Seems to hold enough tension that it doesn't spin. Or I am just lucky.
                            1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
                            80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
                            1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
                            83 gs750ed- first new purchase
                            85 EX500- vintage track weapon
                            1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
                            “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
                            If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I don't have an impact so hand tools it is! any advice on how to remove the top air cap though???
                              Last edited by Guest; 10-09-2012, 08:54 PM.

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