Shinko 230 Torture Test

[Chuck78]

For the record, once leaned over quite a bit, the Battlax tires grip significantly better than the Avon Roadrider AM26, and probably nearly as good as the Shinko. But since the Shinko are a single compound, and the Battlax BT45 are a rear-tire-only "Sport SACT" (i.e. Bridgestone dual compound rear tire construction), the harder rubber in the center of the rears on the Bridgestone definitely does not grip as good as the Shinko, and this is noticeable when really getting on the throttle when going through a turn without being leaned over significantly - but hey you can really induce a good drift this way! That is how I felt at ANY lean angle with the Avon AM26, however, and i could smoke the tires a lot easier from a stop with the Avons.

[Boriqua]

no that is not it, flip the tire over and look on the other side, it is not molded into the tire, it is an ink dot that they put on after the tire is manufactured and they weigh it to see where the heaviest spot is vs lightest spot.

I checked it out very carefully. The only after manufacture mark on it seems to be the Q2 on the tire

http://www.boriqualeather.com/Suzi%20tech/tire4.jpg

Every other mark on the tire is molded in.

The shop installed a tube in my front even though it was a tubeless tire on a mag rim so I am assuming its ok for the back. I bought a tube with balance beads already installed and would like to use it if I can .

[Chuck78]

Tubes are fine, but tubeless is better. You are only supposed to run tubeless if your rim has a safety bead lip. A little lip that keeps the tire bead from dropping down into the center of the rim in the event of a flat, that is a safety bead. The mag wheels will usually say "MT" along with the size designation if it is a safety bead rim.

[Chuck78]

And yes, there should be a noticeable ink dot that is usually a red or yellow I believe, on the sidewall of the tire. About a centimeter in diameter. Either they forgot to mark it, or perhaps you have a perfectly balanced tire?!

[Boriqua]

I will go with the white Q2 in the pic above as the mark since it's the only ink mark on either side. Maybe it's a Chinese thing?

[Chuck78]

No it's not a Chinese thing, they are not made in China! I have mounted over a dozen of these tires, they always have marks on them, not sure why yours do not.

It won't really hurt you regardless, the suggestion is just so that you will have to use less wheel balance weights when balancing them.

You do need to get some adhesive-backed stick-on motorcycle tire balance weights and learn how to do a DIY balancing job, by the way. Otherwise it could vibrate badly at higher speeds and wear the tire very unevenly

[Boriqua]

Opps Korea!

Nope only after manufacture mark is that white Q2. I will go with it.

[Steve]

Time to follow the advice in Nessism's signature:

To measure is to know.

Get the tire mounted. I use the axle in the wheel, supported by a couple of jack stands as my balancing rig. Spin the tire vigorously to warm up the bearings just a bit, then slow it down so it will stop before next weekend. Note when it stops, especially if it reverses direction. Rotate the wheel about 90° to see if it falls to the same spot. Try this several times. If there is consistency on the low spot, add some weight to the top of the rim and try again. Repeat until it stops at random points when spun.

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[Boriqua]

Alright so for anyone following along .. the tools are plenty sturdy as the narrow tire is a pain since it wont flex as much as a wider one. I leaned all over the tools and they didnt bend. At one point I lifted my wife standing on the other side of the tire with an iron and it held up fine. I would have like a third iron so I may buy a single for finesse work.

The motion pro rim protectors worked like a dream. Snapped in place and stayed there. Glad I bought 4. 2 would not have been enough.

I got the tire on with a bit of effort and some how mangled the tube. Sucks but I am not going to patch it. So the tire I took off did NOT have a tube so I figured I would just go tubeless since I have a tubeless rim and tire.

Alright take off the tire from one side and pull the tube reinstall the valve that was there before and .... I cant figure out how to set the bead. I am old and my body hurts and I am calling it a day. The tire is on and once I figure out how to set the bead I should be golden.

So far I am only down 24 bucks for the tube I destroyed but .. its a learning experience .. Right??

Oh one more bit of info .. cleaning fix a flat from the inside of your aluminum rim .... SUCKS!!!!

[Steve]

... I cant figure out how to set the bead. I am old and my body hurts and I am calling it a day. The tire is on and once I figure out how to set the bead I should be golden.

Make sure the edges of the tire bead are lubricated. Inflate tire. When you hear the "POP", stop inflating. Actually, there should be TWO "pops", one for each side, but sometimes they slip into place silently. You can check for proper seating by observing the line. The line in question is the one just under the DOT information in your picture. It should be about 1/8" away from the rim, and should be the same distance all the way around the rim. On both sides. If it dips down to the level of the rim, break down that area, re-lube it and re-seat it.



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[Buffalo Bill]

An keep your fingers and hands away from the sidewalls, they might get pinched!!!

[Chuck78]

You can try putting a small ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire, in the center of the tread and cinching it up tight, is a trick that I always use especially when doing wheelbarrow tires and hand truck moving dolly type cart tubeless tires (MANDATORY every darn time on those little things). Even on car tires sometimes.
That will help force the beads on the tire out slightly.
There's always the exploding starting fluid (Ether) trick as well, but I have NEVER, EVER had to resort to that for a motorcycle tire. One out of five of my truck tires I certainly did this last round, though.

I thought I should clarify something stated above so you don't have any chance of confusion. When you are trying to find the heaviest spot while balancing the tire, when the rim consistently settles to the same spot at the bottom, you put the balance weights on "the top of the rim," meaning 180° out opposite side of rim/wheel, at the top, not just the top of the bottom part of the rim... Common sense, but I didn't want that to get misinterpreted in any way.

[Gorminrider]

cleaning fix a flat from the inside of your aluminum rim .... SUCKS!!!!

I've never been a fan of magic stuff inside tires either.

It can be hard to get the bead to pop! They always tell you not to go over a certain # pressure but I always do. Some particular tires on particular rims can be really tough!
Bt45s on the rear of the 650 was a real bear....because of that "lip" Chuck mentioned (which isn't on the front, by the way)
Keep at it...lubricant at the tricky bit, several deflations and reinflations and so forth. It'll go eventually. It might help to set up a "valveless" air hose. This might give the air more shock value if your compressor tank is small. I found it more effective when I used a car tire as an air tank.

[Grimly]

Did somebody mention a car rim?

[Chuck78]

Did somebody mention a car rim?

Grimly, that is TRULY AWESOME!!!! that's like the more expensive motorcycle tire changer setups that i have seen for sale out of China, that i almost wish i had rather had, but at least with my Harbor Freight setup I am now equipped to do car tire changeouts as well, which worked out really well with my Suzuki Samurai 4x4 tires... I just use balancing beads instead of trying to balance the car tires.

One of those are easy to fabricate up for me, what you have made, I would just stopped to buy a mojo lever or no-scuff bar or whatever the semi DIY low production tire irons for manual motorcycle tire changers are called.